20111228

Mongolian president cracks down on vodka

A leading Mongolian vodka brand.
• From Bernama, the Malaysian News Agency

ULAN BATOR, Mongolia -- Mongolian President Tsakhia Elbegdorj on Wednesday revoked the licenses of 50 bars and 64 grocery stores in the country's capital to sell vodka, Xinhua news agency said citing local reports.

The licenses for the bars were canceled because of police reports, while grocery stores which sold cheap and low-quality, illegally produced vodka after midnight were also banned from selling alcohol, local reports said.

As the New Year approaches, the president's executive office urged all government organizations to fight against alcoholism and not to use vodka during new year celebrations.

"The President's Office has appealed to all news media organizations not to promote and advertise vodka. We also delivered recommendations to all ministers, the governor of Ulan Bator and speaker of parliament not to buy vodka and other alcoholic drinks with state funds," said Banzaarai Nergui, vice chairwoman of the office.

Alcoholism is rampant in Mongolia as there are 91 vodka distilleries, 12 spirit factories and 24 beer breweries working in the Central Asian country.

More than half of the crimes committed in Mongolia were committed by drunk people.

Elbegdorj started to spearhead the campaign against alcoholism last year and urged the public to drink milk instead of vodka. The president doesn't participate in any event which involves vodka consumption.

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20111227

Study: Draw one, mix one for health

We've been trying to keep up with the regular stream of studies suggesting wine has all sorts of magical, mystical medicinal properties that will lead to better health, longer life, etc. Now, brews and spirits are getting some extra support.

A two-decade study published in the January issue of The Journal of Studies On Alcohol and Drugs reports on connections between the moderate consumption of all types of alcohol and increased longevity.

It also supports the findings of prior studies that wine has more beneficial effects than any other alcoholic drinks. However, in a twist that always seems to pop up in any study, researchers said that may because the people who choose wine tend to be more naturally healthy anyway. Go figure.

The study of 802 men and women ages 55 to 65. Of that number, 281 "low wine drinkers" consumed less than one-third of their alcohol intake from wine, 176 "high wine drinkers" consumed two-thirds or more as wine, and 345 abstainers. The drinkers had one to two drinks per day, and researchers followed them for 20 years.

Among the findings: Wine drinkers lived longer than abstainers, and high-wine drinkers lived longer than low-wine drinkers.

Charles Holahan, a psychologist at the University of Texas and lead author of the article, said there may be benefits for older moderate drinkers no matter what kind of alcohol they consume. But, he cautioned, "The study does not encourage initiating wine consumption as a pathway to better health."

Ya gotta love those disclaimers.

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20111226

Whiskey book in stores, online

William M. Dowd
(Photo: Albany Times Union/Paul Buckowski)

Looking for an addition to your book collection or a gift for someone special? Pick up copies of my new book, "Barrels & Drams: The History of Whisk(e)y In Jiggers and Shots," from the New York publisher Sterling Epicure.

The suggested retail price for the hardcover book is $18.95. You can get a copy, often at a discounted price, via such online sites as Amazon, Barnes & Noble, Walmart and others, as well as numerous online booksellers in Australia, Canada, New Zealand and the United Kingdom. Many independent booksellers also have it available.



Here are excerpts from several reviews:

“Bill Dowd knows an awful lot about spirits. So, too, do the estimable scribes he’s included in Barrels & Drams, an outstanding collection of writing about that most beloved and oft-quaffed fortified liquid, whiskey. Tom Wolfe, David Wondrich, Jim Murray and Daniel Okrent are among the 20-plus essayists included in this fun, conversational ride through the history of bourbon, Scotch and Irish whiskey. … And Dowd’s no slouch himself when it comes to spinning a yarn. … Already looking forward to the next edition. But for now, buy ‘Barrels & Drams’.”

Dan Dunn, The Imbiber.com/Sirius Radio


“Whiskey enthusiasts and liquor history buffs will really enjoy this collection of stories that tell the story of whiskey’s past. … If there is one history book you want to add to your collection this year, this is the one.”

Colleen Graham, Ask.com cocktails columnist


“The book’s small batches of information and easy-to-read format make it the quintessential bathroom compendium. But it also belongs in every tavern and home bar, within easy reach of a two-finger pour of Glenlivet. … Dowd has studded the volume with fascinating trivia and delicious history, from ancient Mesopotamia to the 1791 Whiskey Rebellion in America.”

Paul Grondahl, Hearst News Service


“I’m having a blast reading it.”

Drink.Think.com


"Pour a glass of your favorite brown spirit and settle in for “Barrels and Drams: The History of Whisk(e)y in Jiggers and Shots,” edited by William M. Dowd. This collection of essays introduces us to whiskey and heroes worldwide. We’re educated on what to collect, where to hide it, how to make a blend and the horror of drinking whiskey from plastic."

-- Bloomberg News

20111223

'Gin berry' being revitalized in England

A typical juniper bush.
From The Telegraph of London

Juniper bushes in England have been brought back from the brink of extinction, ensuring the fragrant berries can continue to flavour gin and tonic.

The berries of the juniper bush are not only used to flavour gin but game dishes and other foods.

However a survey by Plantlife last year found that the species was dying out with a quarter of sites supporting just one bush and most failing to produce young shrubs.

This means the juniper was in danger of dying out in the next 50 years as to get the next generation of juniper, you need good numbers of both male and female juniper bushes at each site.

The charity decided to restore suitable habitat at 30 sites on chalk downland where the species does best, giving juniper extra help at some of the sites where very few bushes remained by sowing seed or planting seedlings.

[Go here for the full story.]


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20111221

'Tis the season to use your noggin


My introduction to eggnog came at about the age of 7 in the form of my grandmother's do-it-yourself kit: One egg, an 8-ounce glass, a spoonful of sugar, a little bottle of vanilla extract and a fork.

It was a special treat she'd devised for two older cousins and I, and we made a contest out of seeing who could make the best nog. The process was simple in those days before we worried about potential contamination from raw eggs. After all, it was a small farm-country town and we practically knew the hens on a first-name basis.

Crack the egg into a glass (a particularly good way of teaching kids to handle this basic kitchen chore some adults still can't master), beat it up a bit, add the sugar and beat some more till the sweetener dissolves, then add a few drops of vanilla, fill the glass with milk, and beat it some more until it got evenly gold and frothy.

Simple, direct and delicious.

Nowadays, the commonplace way to have eggnog is to buy a waxed carton of it at the market. Maybe you'll doctor it up a bit with a sprinkling of nutmeg or cinnamon, perhaps pop in a candy cane stirrer or mint leaf if it's Christmas time. But, on the whole, it's a pretty unexciting proces. That's where you get into the spirits, or vice versa. A touch of brandy, rum or cognac goes a long way to racheting eggnog up to a different level. The key is restraint.

More isn't necessarily better. Keep the alcohol additive light, adding a bit at a time until you can just taste it through the thickness of the eggnog. Remember, you can always add more; you can't take it out.

Of course, it's not mandatory to add alcohol to your nog. You can give it a boost with freshly grated nutmeg or cinnamon plus a little extra vanilla extract (although that does contains a touch of alcohol). Some people even add a grind of white peppercorns.

The healthy way, if you'd prefer to make your own nog as we did but are leery of potential problems from uncooked eggs, there are several cautious routes to take.

First, of course, is to use an egg substitute. I don't vouch for the overall quality of the eggnog, but it's better than skipping the drink entirely.

Second, exercise rigorous caution when selecting your eggs. Be sure they are clean grade A or AA with no visible cracks or indentations in the shells, and that they are properly refrigerated. Also, be sure to avoid contact between the insides of the eggs and the shells.

As for ready-to-drink eggnog, the U.S. Food and Drug Administration says it must contain at least 1% by weight egg-yolk solids and must be pasteurized. It may also be homogenized.

Eggnog comes to us, as so many of our Christmas season traditions do, from England, where it sometimes is called egg flip. Food historians generally agree that "nog'' is an old dialect word from East Anglia that described a kind of strong ale and "noggin'' was the vessel it was drunk from.

Today's eggnog can be traced to something the English called "posset" -- eggs, milk and ale or wine. Somewhere along the way, nog and posset blended into eggnog.

Eggnog in various forms was popular here from the earliest days of the nation, and even these days December 24 is National Egg Nog Day. George Washington was known for his powerful recipe that included rum, sherry and rye whiskey. Of course, he owned a distillery at Mount Vernon that turned out one of the young country's top ryes, so its inclusion is not surprising.

Eggnog, like so many dishes and drinks, tends to pick up regional characteristics. In the American South, bourbon often is the alcohol additive. In Puerto Rico, where it is called "coquito,'' rum is the spirit of choice and coconut juice or milk also is used. In Mexico, "rompope'' has a lot of cinnamon plus rum or a grain alcohol and is sipped as a liqueur.

A version known as "Tom and Jerry'' was first popularized in early-19th century England, thanks to Pierce Egan, a well-known writer on sports and popular culture. In his book "Life of London: or Days and Nights of Jerry Hawthorne and His Elegant Friend Corinthian Tom,'' he whipped up a variation of eggnog with a healthy dose of brandy atop the usual recipe and named it for his protagonists.

Although that was nearly two centures ago, his drink keeps popping up even in today's better bartender guides. But the iconic American journalist and novelist Damon Runyan (1884-1946) had the best take on the drink in his short story "Dancing Dan's Christmas'' --"This hot Tom and Jerry is an oldtime drink that is used by one and all in this country to celebrate Christmas with, and in fact it is once so popular that many people think Christmas is invented only to furnish an excuse for hot Tom and Jerry, although of course this is by no means true.''

ALTON BROWN'S EGGNOG

This recipe from the Food Network TV personality was first presented on his "Good Eats'' show in 2005. Serves 4-5.

4 egg yolks
1/3 cup sugar, plus 1 tablespoon
1 pint whole milk
1 cup heavy cream
3 ounces bourbon
1 teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg
4 egg whites

In the bowl of a stand mixer, beat the egg yolks until they lighten in color. Gradually add the 1/3 cup sugar and continue to beat until completely dissolved. Add milk, cream, bourbon and nutmeg and stir to combine.

Put egg whites in mixer bowl and beat to soft peaks. With the mixer still running gradually add the 1 tablespoon of sugar and beat until stiff peaks form. Whisk the egg whites into the mixture. Chill and serve.

COQUITO

This recipe for the Puerto Rican version of eggnog serves 16.

2 cups water
8 three-inch cinnamon sticks
6 large egg yolks
3 12-oz. cans evaporated milk
2 cans coconut milk
3 14-oz. cans sweetened condensed milk
3 cups white rum

In a two-quart saucepan, heat water and cinnamon sticks to boiling over high heat. Reduce heat to medium and cook until liquid is reduced to one cup. Remove cinnamon sticks and set liquid aside to cool to room temperature.

In a three-quart saucepan with a wire whisk, beat egg yolks and evaporated milk until well-mixed. Cook over low heat, stirring constantly until mixture thickens and coats a spoon -- about 10 munutes (do not boil). Set aside to cool slightly. When cinnamon flavored liquid has cooled, stir in coconut milk, until well mixed.

In serving bowl, combine coconut mixture, yolk mixture, sweetened condensed milk and rum. Chill well and serve.

EGGNOG COUPE DE MILIEU

This recipe, which serves 6-8, comes from the book "In the Land of Cocktails,'' by New Orleans food and drink mavens Ti Adelaide Martin and Lally Brennan.

2 medium eggs
1 cup heavy cream
1/8 cup sugar
Pinch of ground cinnamon
3/8 cup Southern Comfort
1/8 teaspoon vanilla extract
Grated nutmeg for garnish

Bring about an inch of water to a simmer in the bottom half of a double boiler. While the water heats, in the top half of the boiler combine the eggs, heavy cream, sugar and cinnamon. Place the top half over the simmering water and whisk until thick and frothy, about 6 to 8 minutes.

Pour the mixture through a mesh strainer into a bowl. Refrigerate until chilled like custard, about two hours. When cold, whisk in the Southern Comfort and vanilla. Divide among chilled shot glasses and garnish with freshly grated nutmeg.

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20111220

Here's a good last-minute holiday gift

William M. Dowd
(Photo: Albany Times Union/Paul Buckowski)
Here's a thought for an easy holiday gift. Pick up copies of my new book, "Barrels & Drams: The History of Whisk(e)y In Jiggers and Shots," just released by the New York publisher Sterling Epicure.

The suggested retail price for the hardcover book is $18.95. You can get a copy, often at a discounted price, via such online sites as Amazon, Barnes & Noble, Walmart and others, as well as numerous online booksellers in Australia, Canada, New Zealand and the United Kingdom.

Here are excerpts from several reviews:

“Bill Dowd knows an awful lot about spirits. So, too, do the estimable scribes he’s included in Barrels & Drams, an outstanding collection of writing about that most beloved and oft-quaffed fortified liquid, whiskey. Tom Wolfe, David Wondrich, Jim Murray and Daniel Okrent are among the 20-plus essayists included in this fun, conversational ride through the history of bourbon, Scotch and Irish whiskey. … And Dowd’s no slouch himself when it comes to spinning a yarn. … Already looking forward to the next edition. But for now, buy ‘Barrels & Drams’.”
Dan Dunn, The Imbiber.com/Sirius Radio

“Whiskey enthusiasts and liquor history buffs will really enjoy this collection of stories that tell the story of whiskey’s past. … If there is one history book you want to add to your collection this year, this is the one.”
Colleen Graham, Ask.com cocktails columnist

“The book’s small batches of information and easy-to-read format make it the quintessential bathroom compendium. But it also belongs in every tavern and home bar, within easy reach of a two-finger pour of Glenlivet. … Dowd has studded the volume with fascinating trivia and delicious history, from ancient Mesopotamia to the 1791 Whiskey Rebellion in America.”
Paul Grondahl, Hearst News Service

“I’m having a blast reading it.”
Drink.Think.com

"Pour a glass of your favorite brown spirit and settle in for “Barrels and Drams: The History of Whisk(e)y in Jiggers and Shots,” edited by William M. Dowd. This collection of essays introduces us to whiskey and heroes worldwide. We’re educated on what to collect, where to hide it, how to make a blend and the horror of drinking whiskey from plastic."
-- Bloomberg News

20111216

Lower-calorie RTDs for the holidays

The holidays are a time infamous for weight gain, sometimes from all the goodies eaten, but just as often from the beverages ingested.

With that in mind, the makers of a line of ready-to-drink (RTD) cocktails named Ivana B Skinny -- get it, nudge, nudge? I wanna be skinny -- are pushing what they see as their lower-calorie option.

The RTDs, from importer International Spirits LLC, are wine-based. They are available in margarita, cosmopolitan and appletini flavors with 10% alcohol, all less than 100 calories per 5-ounce serving.

"We did a lot of experimenting with alcohol-based vs. wine-based drinks and found that wine makes the drinks sweeter, more flavorful and keeps the calories lower," said Tony Elward, CEO and co-owner of International Spirits. "Taste was our highest priority. We didn't stop until our taste testers told us it was the best low-calorie cocktail out there."

Ivana B Skinny cocktails are available in 16 states -- Florida, Georgia, California, New Jersey, Ohio, Maine, South Carolina, Louisiana, Texas, Tennessee, Missouri, Arkansas, Kansas, Kentucky, Indiana, Maryland -- and the District of Columbia.

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Don Julio introduces 'aƱejo claro' tequila

Have you ever heard of an "aƱejo claro" tequila? The distiller Don Julio hopes to make it a commonplace term in the tequila world.

The new Don Julio 70 tequila goes through a filtration process after being barrel-aged that eliminates the brown color while leaving in its flavor notes.

"You get the smoothness of the blanco, the agave notes of the blanco, with hints of aƱejo and the sweetness of the aƱejo," according to the company.

Don Julio 70 was created in honor of the 70th anniversary of the Tequila Don Julio brand created by Julio GonzƔlez. The suggested retail is $70 per bottle.

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Report: Gin 'revival' is greatly exaggerated

A beleaguered niche.
Uh, about that gin revival. Euromonitor International, the research firm, says that rather than the anecdotally-reported gain in gin sales, the number actually dropped 2% globally in 2011.

To make matters worse, the industry analysts are forecasting flat sales until 2016.

"The much-vaunted great leap forward is apparently yet to come," said Spiros Malandrakis, alcoholic drinks analyst at Euromonitor.

Interestingly, the majority of gin sales came in the U.S. However, after a slight uptick in 2010, sales growth slowed to 2% in the U.K., and sales in India, traditionally a major gin consumer, fell 5%.

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Another record-setting whisky sale

The record-setter, for now.
This story line seems to be nearly a monthly one: Whisk(e)y sells for beaucoup bucks.

This week it was a 55-year-old bottle of Scotch sold at auction for $72,630, the most ever paid for a single malt whiskey.

The item in question was a Glenfiddich Janet Sheed Roberts Reserve, created to honor the granddaughter of the founder of Scotland's Glenfiddich distillery. At age 110, she is believed to be the oldest living Scot.

A specialist at the Edinburgh-based Bonhams auction house told the BBC:

"It’s not often a whisky of this stature comes up at auction. ... The rarity and quality of the liquid, the exquisite bespoke packaging and the story behind its creation makes this a collectible that’s hard to value."

The record may be a fleeting one, however. Eleven more bottles of the same scotch are scheduled to be sold later this year as a fundraiser for Water Aid, the international charity.

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Beam buys Cooley, major Irish distiller

The Cooley Distillery lineup.
Beam Inc. today announced the purchase of Cooley Distillery, the Irish maker of such whiskies as Kilbeggan and Connemara.

Cooley, the only remaining independent Irish whiskey distillery, will mark Beam's entrance into one of the spirits industry's fastest-growing categories. The purchase price is approximately $95 million, according to Beam.

Cooley, which also owns and produces the Tyrconnell and Greenore brands, "is one of only three sources for Irish whiskey, and the only independent player, so this transaction is a unique and compelling high-return opportunity to enter one of the industry's highest growth categories," said Matt Shattock, Beam president and CEO.

"We see the opportunity to ... expand distribution off a relatively small base in key export markets for Irish whiskey across North America and Europe."

John Teeling, Chairman and Founder of Cooley Distillery, said, "Beam understands whiskey. They have the culture, experience and global strength to enable the Cooley portfolio of brands to reach their potential in the fast growing Irish whiskey category. The renaissance in Irish whiskey, most evident in the United States, is now spreading across the world. Through Beam, our brands, built on quality, will be introduced to a host of new consumers. I am certain that the marriage between Cooley and Beam will benefit all."

Cooley's Kilbeggan Distillery, opened in 1757, is reputed to be the world's oldest distillery and produces Cooley's flagship blended Irish whiskey. Cooley's was named European Spirits Producer of the Year for an unprecedented four consecutive years (2008-2011) by the International Wine & Spirit Competition.

The Irish whiskey category grew 11.5% in 2010 to 4.86 million cases according to Impact Databank. The leading markets for Irish whiskey are the U.S., Ireland, the United Kingdom, France, South Africa and Germany.

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20111214

Old Pulteney running dry in U.S.

It was only back in October that I noted whiskey guru Jim Murray had named Old Pulteney 21 Year Old the top whiskey in the world, in his definitive 2012 Whisky Bible.

So, it came as a bit of a surprise when International Beverage USA today announced the company has virtually run out of the Scotch single malt in the U.S.

"No matter how many hours we work into the night, we simply cannot make the whisky age any faster until it's fully matured to perfection," master distiller Malcolm Waring said in a statement.

International Beverage U.S. President Pat Graney said he expects the next batch to be available in the U.S. in March 2012.

"We knew Old Pulteney 21-Year-Old was a standout product, but we never dreamed it would literally run out," he said.

Consumers can stay up to date on availability of the Pulteney 21 on its Facebook page.

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20111212

Maine distiller aiding tri-state food banks

Potato plants at Green Thumb Farms.
If you like Cold River vodka and/or gin, you'll love what its maker is doing.

Maine Distilleries, which gets its potatoes from Green Thumb Farms in Fryeburg, ME, operated by one of the distillery partners, plans to donate one pound of potatoes to food banks in Maine, New Hampshire and Massachusetts for every bottle of its vodka and gin sold in those states during the first three months of 2012.

The Freeport company says the potatoes will be donated during next fall's potato harvest to the Good Shepherd Food Bank in Auburn, ME, the New Hampshire Food Bank in Manchester, NH, and the Greater Boston Food Bank.

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Tasmanian distillery releases its first batch

Checking a batch at Old Hobart.
The Land Down Under is known for its beers and wines, but it does have a whiskey industry, believe it or not.

Old Hobart Distillery, a boutique distillery that produces whiskeys and other spirits, has unveiled its Overeem Single Malt Whiskey, with single cask bottles individually numbered and accompanied by a certificate of authenticity.

The family-owned distillery was created in 2005 by Casey Overeem on the Australian island of Tasmania. Its first batch includes four styles: Port Matured Overeem Single Malt Whiskey; Port Matured Overeem Single Malt Whiskey Cask Strength; Sherry Matured Overeem Single Malt Whiskey, and Sherry Matured Overeem Single Malt Whiskey Cask Strength.

Old Hobart has achieved highest score for an Australian whiskey in a blind tasting by the Malt Whiskey Society of Australia (MWSoA). Its whiskies can be ordered online.

The first legal distillery in Tasmania was established in 1822 when the area was known as Van Diemen’s Land. By 1824, there were 16 legal distilleries on the island, but in 1838 Governor John Franklin issued a decree prohibiting distilling. That held until the late 1990s when distilling began to return.

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20111201

Scotch Whisky Association names new chairman

EDINBURGH -- Ian Curle, chief executive of The Edrington Group, makes of Famous Grouse, has been named new chairman of the Scotch Whisky Association.

Curle succeds Paul Walsh, chief executive of Diageo, who headed the trade organization for four years. One of Walsh's last acts was to announce industry export figures for the first three quarters of 2011 that show the value of exports totaled nearly 23% more than the same period a year earlier.

"The industry is enjoying a tremendous period of growth around the world," Walsh said, "making it one of the most important manufactured exports the UK produces."

Walsh will remain on the SWA council.

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