20090930

$16K for latest Macallan-Lalique offering

William M. Dowd photo illustration

This is part of "Gotta Have ...", a series of occasional postings on unusual spirits products.

If you have a spare $16,000 laying around, you can be the proud owner of the third offering in the Six Pillars Collection, a whiskey-and-crystal project of The Macallan and Lalique.

The first two decanters in the series were designed to reflect the Macallans Exceptional Oak Casks and Natural Colour. This one is an exceptionally rare 57-year-old single malt whisky in a Lalique Finest Cut decanter.

The decanter has been designed by the French crystal house for the Scottish distiller, with a limited edition of 400 numbered bottles on the market. This release was vatted together from two casks: a 1950 American oak sherry butt and a vatting from Spanish oak sherry butts originally filled in 1949, 1951 and 1952.

This is the second oldest Macallan whisky ever released, only surpassed in age by the 1926, a 60-year-old Scotch bottled in 1986 and sold at auction for $75,000 in 2005.

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20090929

Bill's eMailbox: Appraising Jack Daniel's collection

Q: I hope you can assist me. My father had a huge Jack Daniel's collection. It was his passion to collect Jack Daniel's (memorabilia). Sadly, he passed away two years ago. My mom has the collection at the moment.

Do you possibly have a contact of a Jack Daniel's assessor? We would love to find out what it is worth and maybe she would sell the collection.

Kind regards,

Lizelle Binneman
New Zealand


A: Well, Lizelle, you'll probably get as many different evaluations as there are appraisers when it comes to mixed memorabilia collections. The market for them varies widely, from people who collect only coasters or only bar signs or only figurines to people who collect anything with a specific name on it.

I would suggest contacting the public relations department at the Jack Daniel's Distillery in Lynchburg, TN, and ask them for the names of known, reputable collectors/appraisers. That way you'd have a much better chance of cutting through any confusion.

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20090924

On the rocks -- for real

Andrew Hellman likes his drinks on the rocks. So, he invented "rocks" that will chill the drink.

Hellman, co-founder of the tableware company Teroforma, came up with processed soapstone rocks that you store in the freezer for several hours before using. The rocks will not dilute the drink and also will not scratch glass.

The rocks, milled to the size of sugar cubes at the Vermont Soapstone company's facility in Perkinsville, VT, are sold in sets of nine in a muslin storage bag for $20. Teroforma suggests them only for small drinks or shots.

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20090921

Texas distiller makes 1st blue corn whiskey

If your ideas of drinking in Texas are based on old movies about the Wild West, you'd be forgiven for thinking there was a distillery every few miles. But, that's far from the truth.

There aren't a lot of distilleries in the Lone Star State. And one of the more interesting ones is just 19 months old.

Balcones Distilling, founded last year in Waco, has just released what it says is probably the world's first blue corn whiskey, called Baby Blue.

Chip Tate, founder of Balcones (pronounced bal-KO-nays), said the whiskey is made 100% from Hopi blue corn, distilled twice, and aged in new charred oak barrels.

Tate, a longtime brewer, said Baby Blue could legally be called bourbon, but the type of corn he used gives it a different character. As the Balcones website explains it:

"While Hopi blue corn we use has an extremely interesting history, there is really only reason one we prefer it to all other corn for our whiskey -- taste. Its gorgeous midnight blue kernels are packed with a rich, roasty nuttiness that is truly exceptional.

"Unlike most of the blue corn on the market, Hopi blue corn is not just white dent corn which has been specially crossed to give it a blue tint. There is a lot of quality corn in this category, even some nice organic examples. But in a blind taste test, we could not tell the blue from the white corn. Hopi blue corn, however, has been grown with the same rich color and flavor for thousands of years and is the only corn that could impart the rich character we require for our whisky.??Americans have innovated the use of corn in whisky since we first set foot on this continent."

Balcones also has Rumble, a rum-like spirit made from Texas wildflower honey, mission figs and turbinado sugar, in distribution.

Availability at this time is very limited. If you live outside Texas, your best bet is to contact Stephen Germer, co-founder and marketing director, directly at (512) 294-6735 for information.

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Jack Daniel's: Mmm, that's meat

Many people enjoy having a shot of Jack Daniel's with their meals. Now they can have a bite of Jack Daniel's to go with their whiskey.

Jack Daniel’s Properties Inc., the brand licensing unit of Jack Daniel’s Tennessee Whiskey, is launching a line of Jack Daniel’s ready-to-eat meat entrees.

The refrigerated products include baby back ribs, roasted beef brisket, pork loin, barbecue pulled pork and barbecue pulled chicken. They will be made using Jack Daniel’s Old No. 7 Tennessee Whiskey.

The foods are being produced by Completely Fresh Foods Inc. of Monticello, CA.

“With the launch of this premium line of Jack Daniel’s ready-to-eat meat entrees, we are furthering the long-established connection between Jack Daniel’s Tennessee Whiskey and high-quality American cuisine,” David Dorsey, vice president and director for licensing at JD's parent Brown-Forman Corp., said in a news release.

The entrees were test marketed in September 2008 in Southern California and have been expanded into such stores as Costco, Albertsons, Kroger and Supervalu around the country.

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20090919

Mexican authorities trash fake tequilas

From the Guadalajara (Mexico) Reporter

GUADALAJARA, Mexico -- Authorities destroyed almost 25,000 containers (86,000 liters) of fake tequila last week after an operation in which Consumer Protection Agency officials traveled the Ruta del Tequila, snatching up adulterated firewater in the towns of Tequila, Amatitan, Magdelena, Teuchitlan and Arenal.

Included in the haul were liquors, cream liquors, mezcals and other beverages labled “tequila” without the proper authorization. More odious were watered down or under volume products.

Tequila distillery owners helped authorities light the blaze that destroyed the productos piratas.

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Bombay Sapphire: We are the champions

I have long felt a special relationship with Bombay Sapphire gin.

Sure, I enjoy others -- G'vine, Hendrick's, Boodles and so on, but Sapphire was my first love.

Well, it turns out the iconic infused spirit has been seeing other guys -- and gals. According to the International Wine and Spirit Record (IWSR), Bombay Sapphire has become the world’s top premium gin with a global market share of 31.7% for the 12-month period ending Dec. 31, 2008, now that all sales figures have been analyzed.

The best-performing markets for the Bacardi Ltd. product have been in the top international gin markets -- the U.S., United Kingdom, Spain and travel retail, outperforming the category in both value and volume. In 2008, Sapphire racked up a compound annual growth rate of 11.7%, according to IWSR.

Hussy.

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20090916

'Spirits of Mexico' fit to be tied

The final results are in from the "Spirits of Mexico" tasting competition just completed in San Diego. Interestingly, two categories had ties for the top award.

In the Silver/Plata category, Corazon Blanco and Nocaut Blanco tied for "best of" honors. And, in Añejo, Milagro and Oro Azul tied for the top award.

Other category toppers:

TEQUILA REPOSADO: Pueblo Viejo

TEQUILA EXTRA AÑEJO: Clase Azul Ultra

SOTOL: Hacienda de Chihuahua Silver

MEZCAL: Forever Oax Reposado

TEQUILA FLAVORS/CREAMS: Casa 1921 Cream

The competition, sponsored by The Polished Palate and owner Dori Bryant, judged 111 entries from 48 brands. It produced 44 gold medals, 40 silver and 25 bronze.

The competition was co-hosted by Robert Plotkin of Bar Media and Jack Robertiello of Drinks Ink. Entries were judged on five elements -- appearance, aromatics, flavor, mouthfeel and finish, with a rating system totaling a maximum possible score of 100 points. Riedel Tequila Crystal was the stemware of choice.

Five brands received gold medals across the board for their Blanco, Reposado and Añejo entries, including Pueblo Viejo, newcomers Nocaut and El Grado, the newly re-launched Suavemente and Hacienda de Chihuahua Sotol.

The gold medal winners in the various categories were:

TEQUILA SILVER/PLATA: Chinaco Blanco, Corazon Blanco, Corzo Silver, Don Eduardo Silver, El Grado Blanco, La Certeza Blanco, La Pinata Silver, Nocaut Blanco, Pueblo Viejo Blanco, Riazul Premium Silver, Siete Leguas Blanco, Tierras Blanco, Suavemente Blanco.

TEQUILA REPOSADO: 3 Amigos, Chinaco, Clase Azul, El Grado, Muchote, Nocaut, Penacho Azteca, Pueblo Viejo, Suavemente, T1-Tequila Uno.

TEQUILA AÑEJO: Tequila 55, Capaz, El Grado, Milagro, Nocaut, Orgullo Pueblo Viejo, Oro Azul, Pueblo Viejo, Suavemente.

TEQUILA EXTRA AÑEJO: Campo Azul, Clase Azul Ultra, Corrido, T1-Tequila Uno, 11 Años.

SOTOL: Hacienda de Chihuahua Silver, Hacienda de Chihuahua Reposado, Hacienda de Chihuahua Añejo.

MEZCAL: Forever Oax Reposado, Forever Oax Silver.

TEQUILA FLAVORS/CREAMS: Casa 1921 Tequila Cream, Gran Centenario Rosangel.

Go here for the complete list of all other medals.

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20090915

Maine's wine, spirit makers on the prowl


• From McClatchy-Tribune Information Services


CAMDEN, ME -- Maine wine and spirit makers face an uphill battle to win market share, but they are welcoming the challenge.

C.C. Peet of Cellardoor Winery in Lincolnville, Steve Linne of Blacksmiths Winery in South Casco, Bob Bartlett of Bartlett's Winery in Gouldsboro and Bob Harkins of Cold River Vodka in Freeport detailed the challenges of the wine and spirit business during a panel discussion ... at the 4th annual Maine Fare celebration.

Maine Fare's goal is to assist in preserving, protecting and sharing Maine's culinary history and resources. The event highlighted Maine products through panel discussions, tastings, exhibits and samplings. The wine and spirit panel was moderated by Jack Scully of Belfast's Easterly Wine.

All agreed that the key thing they have working for them is the Maine brand. Whether marketing wine or spirits, having a product that is made in Maine makes it easier to attract buyers.

"There is a tremendous loyalty to Maine-made and -grown foods," Scully said. "The possibility for growth in the wine and spirit field is terrific. I think the growth of Maine products both inside the state and outside the state has great potential."

All three vintners said that because wine has a certain "snob factor," it's difficult to convince buyers that wines made of blueberries and other fruits can match up with grape wines from France or California. Bartlett, who has been in the business more than 30 years, said some wine drinkers are reluctant to sample his wines simply because they are made from fruit. He said working with restaurants individually is one way of overcoming that problem.

[Go here for the full story.]

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20090912

The Lion & The Bartender



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Indian whisky overtaking No. 1 Johnnie Walker

Johnnie Walker has long held the distinction of being the world's top-selling whisky, but that title is about to be taken over by an Indian spirit.

Bagpiper will be the No. 1 seller by the end of the year, according to projections crediting huge sales in India, the world's biggest whisky market.

Johnnie Walker was founded in Kilmarnock, Scotland, in the 19th Century.

Bagpiper was created in 1976, and sells for about US$3.25 a bottle. It is made by the United Spirits company in Bangalore, India, and is owned by Vijay Mallya, who also owns Whyte & Mackay of Glasgow, Scotland.

In an interview with the Daily Record, a Scottish newspaper, Ian Bankier, chairman of The Whisky Shop store chain, said: "Bagpiper is not Scotch. Indian whiskies are made from sugar molasses with some bulk Scotch in there to flesh them out. They're nice, they're pleasant, they're sweet. But it is a completely different drink from Scotch. Really, we're comparing a moped with a Rolls Royce."

Last year, 147 million litres of Johnnie Walker were sold around the world, compared with 139 million litres of Bagpiper. However, sales of Johnnie Walker grew by just 3%, while Bagpiper's sales are growing in excess of 10%.

The Scotch Whisky Association says Bagpiper's rise is largely due to high import tariffs, which tripled the price of Scotch whisky. Campbell Evans of the SWA said:

"This isn't about the state of the Scotch industry, it has everything to do with the Indian government's tariff barriers. India has the biggest spirits market in the world and it is primarily Indian product that's sold there. The tariffs mean it's very difficult for Scotch to get a foothold in the market and addressing that is our No.. 1 international priority.... Right now, we have less than 1% of the Indian whisky market."

Speaking of Whyte and Mackay, the company is in the process of laying off about 100 workers in Scotland, blaming a sales slump in the whisky industry and a general decline in the economy.

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20090911

'Cursing Mommy' on a cocktail rant

Ian Frazier, writing in the "Shouts & Murmurs" section of The New Yorker magazine, has come up with one of the side-splittingest pieces I've read in a very long time.

In the guise of The Cursing Mommy, a female columnist he devised, Frazier lectures on the perfect cocktail and how to make it -- or find it once you've made it.

It begins this way (Warning: Salty language throughout):

"Those high-priced bartenders in their red vests and white shirts who your caterers recommended to serve at your last party may know a thing or two, but for entertaining on a smaller scale -- for parties of seven people, four, or even just one -- a few simple steps to the perfect cocktail are all you’ll ever need. Take, for example, this drink I’m drinking right now. Where the hell did I put it? I just set it down five minutes ago. I had it when I was watching the news, I know that. Now what in hell could I have done with it? O.K. -- I found it, thank heavens. I must have set it here on the stairs when I went to throw away the mail. Anyway, as I was saying, making this particular drink, which happens to be a vodka gimlet, is simplicity itself, once you know how."

[Go here for the whole piece.]

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Monster whisky bottle one for the book

If you're limited to just one bottle of Scotch, the distillers at Tomintoul, the highest village in the Highlands, have come up with just the thing for you.

They've made it into the Guinness Book of World Records by producing the world’s largest whisky bottle for their Tomintoul Speyside Glenlivet Single Malt. It holds the equivalent of 150 regular bottles.

It recently was filled by hand at the distillery in August with 105.3 litres of the 14-year-old whisky, and stands just under five ffet tall. The bottle now is on permanent display at the Clockhouse in the Tomintoul village square.

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20090908

A celebri-quote: Ricky Gervais

British actor/comedian/producer Ricky Gervais ("The Office," "Extras") was interviewed by Bon Appétit magazine about alcohol, food and other things in his life.

Q: Any favorite indulgences?

A: Here's the bottom line. Cheese, wine and Champagne are amazing. Salt and chocolate are amazing. It's not rocket science. We're mammals -- we like fat, salt and alcohol. Mammals love alcohol.

You know, drunkenness occurs the same in animals as in adults, from mammals down to insects. Antelopes eat fermented apples and go down to the watering hole the next day and they're hung over.


[Go here for more celebri-quotes.]

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Tequila debuts at Spirits of Mexico test

Several tequila brands will be unveiled at the Spirits of Mexico Festival this week in San Diego.

T-1 (Tequila Uno), El Grado Tequila, which translates as "highest grade," and Suavemente Tequila, the first brand to win gold medals for all four entries (blanco, reposado, añejo and extra añejo) in the Polished Palate's agave-only spirits competition last year.

More than 100 entries will be sampled in blind judging this week. Dori Bryant's Polished Palate events always support charity. This year's silent auction will benefit the Sky Ranch Foundation, which next year will mark 50 years of helping troubled youths.

Seminars at the Spirits of Mexico Festival this week include video presentations, cocktail-making demonstrations, and various dinners.

Bryant today announced the scheduling of a variety of events for the remainder of the year managed by her Polished Palate organization. They are:

• 8th annual NY RumFest, Astor Center, New York, October 8.

• Polished Palate Spirits Festival as part of the Latin Food & Wine Festival in Orlando, FL, November 14-15.

• The Tampa Bay Spirits Festival at the Renaissance Vinoy Resort & Golf Club, St. Petersburg, FL, November 28.

• The Fort Lauderdale RumFest, Bahia Mar Beach Resort & Yachting Center, Fort Lauderdale, FL, December 3.

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20090903

New gin gets a grand putdown


Back in September I wrote about Brockmans Gin, the newest spirit about to be loosed upon the bar and club scene in the UK.

I have yet to try it, since it's generally available only in the UK, but I found that a commentary from the editors of CLASS magazine, dedicated to bar culture, caught my attention more than any bottle would.

They wrote:

“In the last issue of CLASS magazine we made a decision based entirely on good will -- someone obviously caught Simon [editor Simon Difford] soon after his 4 p.m. refreshing beer. As a favour to a then-unheard-of gin company we ran a page of advertising for free as they had already paid the previous publisher. We had just got our baby back and we were feeling charitable.

"Since running the advertisement, we have had the misfortune to taste their ‘gin’ and our notes are as follows:

"The producers of Brockmans take a traditional distillate made by distilling neutral spirits with fairly classic botanicals and then (in our opinion) ruin it by cold compounding a berry essence. The result is a spirit that smells more reminiscent of boiled sweets than gin. As for the palate, if you were tasting Brockmans we very much doubt you would mistake it for a gin. Why did they add that fruit essence but not a simple apostrophe? We consider it shameful to the wider gin category to label this a gin, let alone a 'premium gin.'

"We won’t be accepting this brand’s advertisements at any price. Brockmans is barred from CLASS.”

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20090902

Infusing your way from garden to glass

• The St. Petersburg (FL) Times is doing some recycling. Given the economic state of the newspaper industry and the nation's overall push for going green, that makes perfect sense. In this instance, I was particularly interested because what was being recycled was a story I wrote last year, and which was syndicated to dozens of newspapers across the nation. Since it is pretty much good every year, and they obviously liked it enough to use it again, I share it here with you.

Hacking my way through the profusion of herbs in my small but productive garden, I reveled in the fragrances of the thyme, rosemary, tarragon, cinnamon basil and other plants I was forced to cut back before they took over the adjacent patio.

What a wonderful time of year, when the upside of a wet, hot summer that plagued us in so many other outdoor pursuits is seen in such garden abundance.

Not only does it fill some inner, primal urge to grow things in rich earth, it provides inspiration for additional creativity in preparing summer food and drink.

Creating herb blends to perfume the smoke of the barbecue grill. Brightening the routine tossed salads in need of some new tastes. Finding just the right chopped leaves to blend into artisanal chevre cheeses from the local farm stands. All these are summertime givens for me, but don't forget what can be done with a deft touch to your cocktails and vodka infusions.

Not that there is any shortage of flavored vodkas on the market. Infusions are arguably the biggest thing in the world of alcoholic beverages these days. The major money is found in handling infusions at the mass-production level in factories or distilleries, not at the local bar no matter how much of a signature gimmick is created. Virtually every commercial brand of vodka, for example, offers versions infused with various fruit flavorings. Likewise with some gins, rums and even whiskies.

It is just that I prefer my own infusions, free of chemicals and trickery. Buying such concoctions may be fine for ease of use but, just as a home cooked meal can be more enjoyable than a takeout spread, doing your own infusing is a lot more fun. It certainly can lead to a more enjoyable cocktail party conversation than simply opening a bottle.

Infusions have been around for nearly as long as alcohol has been part of the human experience. Liqueurs concocted on farms, in monasteries and in laboratories give testament to the boundless imagination of amateur and professional chemists. Mead makers of the Middle Ages infused their honey liquor with herbs and spices. And, the strength of alcohol was long believed to counteract the toxic parts of certain substances favored as medicines throughout the centuries.

Alcohol can be infused with botanicals, marinated with macerated fruits, or stirred together with other potions. It can be dotted with flecks of pure gold, cloves, grains of pepper, sprinklings of cinnamon. The mixtures can be festive, imaginative, wonderful introductions to grown-up spirits. They can be used as dessert toppings, as baking ingredients or -- as many tavern owners and restaurants know -- excellent appetite-boosters and after-meal relaxers.

They can be flavored with nuts, fruits, exotic plant extracts. They can be orange, blue, black, white, red, pink, yellow, green or any other color.

If you're interested in doing some of your own infusing, the best strategy is to begin with the simplest recipes.

Get a trio of small (half-pint or so) sealable jars and run them through the dishwasher to sterilize them. Pour each about two-thirds full of a decent grade of vodka and begin the infusing process.

Use small amounts of liquid to get a better handle on the proportions of infusing material that suit your taste.

Like a particular chili pepper, such as those hot little Asian numbers? Bruise one ever-so-slightly to allow some of the oil to seep out and let it steep in a sealed jar of vodka for about 10 days. Shake it occasionally during that time, but don't unseal the jar.

Want to try a citrus style? Juices of lemons, oranges and limes are the most acidic and share their essence very well. Feel free to mix them if you're a "limon" sort of person.

If you want to try a complicated cocktail in a bottle, raise the number of ingredients to four or five, such as I do when I create my Summer Salad Vodka which I've shared with readers before. If you missed it, here it is again:

Begin with cubes of peeled, seeded fresh cucumber, add a quarter teaspoon of dried dill or a sprig of fresh thyme, a grind of fresh cracked black pepper and a squeeze of fresh lemon juice to create a refreshing infusion reminiscent of a summer salad. (For an extra kick, add two drops of Tabasco hot sauce or Tabasco green pepper sauce when you serve the drink.)

If your tastes run toward the sweeter side of the scale, your vodka can be infused with virtually any fruit. Simply bruise the fruit so its sugars and acids will leach out during the incubation period. You can speed the process by pouring the liquor over fresh-cut strawberries, kiwis, mixed fruit salad or melons.

Remember to run your infused liquors through a small-screen sieve before serving. Many a nice drink has been spoiled by the residue left from stems, seeds, leaves and skins.

One last tip: The infusing materials don't always have to be tossed away. Think of how nice some of those pieces of fruit will taste after sitting in a vodka or gin bath for a few weeks.

As additional inspiration, I share some hints from Giuliano Morandin, manager of the bar at the Dorchester hotel in London, a barman for more than 25 years and a top 10 martini maker as chosen by Tanqueray No. Ten gin. In an interview with the Financial Times of London, he said:

"Use fresh mint, use rosemary, use anything! Thyme, for example, is wonderful with most things. Quickly mash, let the oil come through. Or you can put it with crushed ice and that acts like an abrasive -- rub it in, then when you take it out, the ice smells of the herb. Add bourbon, rye, rum, whatever sweetener you have -- a bit of apricot liquor, some maraschino -- just two drops will do. Keep it simple. See what happens. Let it work its magic. Be gentle with it."

If all this doesn't inspire you to experiment and enjoy, there is no hope for civilization as we know it.

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20090901

What will they think of next? (September issue)

 This month's collection of cocktail recipes consists of a trio of new concoctions that won recent bartending competitions.

ABSOLUTLY ROCKING

Brit bartender Gianluigi Bosco created this drink to win the Flair Bartending category in the World Cocktail Championships in Berlin. The spelling of the drink is an homage to Absolut Vodka, one of the event sponsors. His flair: He wore a big felt hat and juggled apple juice and vodka bottles to the tune of “My Sharona” sung by The Knack. Go here for a video of him in action, sans hat.

3 parts Absolut vodka
⅓ part mango juice
⅓ part apple juice
2 drops vanilla extract
1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice
Lime, apple and red currants for garnish

Shake all ingredients with fresh ice, strain into a chilled cocktail glass and garnish.

GRAPES OF WRATH


Matthew Biancaniello of the Roosevelt Hotel in Los Angeles whipped up this winner in the Chartreuse Competition in LA.

¾ ounce lemon juice
½ ounce agave or simple syrup
1½ ounces Hendricks gin
½ ounce green Chartreuse
Marinated concord grapes for garnish

Muddle the grapes with the lemon juice and agave or simple syrup. Add the gin, green Chartreuse and ice; stir. Garnish with the Grand Marnier-marinated grapes.

MASALARINHA

Tad Carducci created this fragrant, Indian-inspired caipirinha recipe and was honored for it in this year's Tales of the Cocktauil competition in New Orleans.

2 ounces Leblon cachaça
3 quarters lime
1/2 ounce honey
1–2” inch peel of grapefruit
1” inch cube of fresh pineapple
1/4 tsp. garam masala powder
1/4 tsp. turmeric for color

Muddle lime, pineapple and honey. Add additional ingredients and ice. Shake and serve over ice.

[Go here for the archive of monthly "What will they think of next?" cocktail recipes.]


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