20080430

The latest final word from the absinthe front

Pablo Picasso's
"The Absinthe Drinker," 1901


The headline: "Absinthe’s mind-altering mystery solved"

The reality: Probably not.

The latest disclosure by someone trying to "solve" the legend-studded history of the controversial liqueur that only recently became legal again in the U.S. lays its high impact on the minds of poets, paupers, princes and painters to its very high alcohol content: 70 percent alcohol by volume, or 140 proof, to be precise. Certainly well in excess of the average bottle of spirits which rings in at 80 proof.

The story on the Imaginova Network's Live Science site says, "The modern scientific consensus is that absinthe's reputation could simply be traced back to alcoholism, or perhaps toxic compounds that leaked in during faulty distillation. Still, others have pointed at a chemical named thujone in wormwood, one of the herbs used to prepare absinthe and the one that gives the drink its green color. Thujone was blamed for 'absinthe madness' and 'absinthism,' a collection of symptoms including hallucinations, facial tics, numbness and dementia.

"Prior studies suggested that absinthe had only trace levels of thujone. But critics claimed that absinthe made before it got banned in France in 1915 had much higher levels of thujone than modern absinthe produced since 1988, when the European Union lifted the ban on making absinthe."

It goes on to say that Dirk Lachenmeier, a chemist with the Chemical and Veterinary Investigation Laboratory of Karlsruhe in Germany, and several colleagues analyzed 13 samples of absinthe from old, sealed bottles in France, Switzerland, Italy, Spain, the Netherlands and the U.S. dating to the early 1900s before the ban. They found "relatively small concentrations of thujone in that absinthe, about the same as those in modern varieties."

While interesting, and further fuel to keep the absinthe debate going, the German findings are a long way from proving any final word on the impact and lore of absinthe.

As I have written several times in recent years, the herb-infused alcohol that began as a medicine had been blamed for bad judgment, poor health, even outright madness. Nevertheless, it was the drink beloved of 19th century Parisian cafe society, enjoyed by such writers and artists as Baudelaire, Lautrec, Picasso, Degas and Manet. In fact, in those times the cocktail hour was referred to as l’heure verte — the Green Hour — in honor of absinthe.

There are those who theorize that the anti-absinthe forces were funded by the wine industry, which was losing ground in the marketplace to la Fee Verte, the “Green Fairy,” as the drink was known. Any link, no matter how tenuous, between evildoers and absinthe was loudly proclaimed until enough of the public grew fearful of its continued availability to demand a ban.

Absinthe began its comeback several years ago in England, where entrepreneurs discovered no legal ban remained in effect prohibiting sale or consumption of absinthe. Its availability has spread to neighboring countries and even to the U.S., although consumption here was limited by the federal government’s guidelines against the original-strength version.

Absinthe is made by steeping dried herbs in ethyl alcohol, then distilling the liquor. The main herbs are nothing unusual — anise and star anise, peppermint, wormwood, fennel, perhaps a few others, depending upon which recipe one prefers.

Wormwood is the catalyst for a chemical change during the process that, combined with the very high alcohol content (usually in excess of 150 proof, or 75% abv), gives the drink its potency through release of the chemical thujone. Wormwood itself is not inherently bad. It has been used as a medicine for stomach ailments and as an herbal dietary supplement. Its medicinal uses crop up regularly in the Bible. The problem comes with the concentration ingested.

When the first domestic legal absinthe in a century went on sale in the U.S. last December, it kicked off a demand for the controversial liquor all across the country.

It was quite a scene in Alameda, CA, where St. George Spirits, an artisinal distiller operating out of a former naval warehouse in San Francisco Bay, was given the OK to sell its version of absinthe by the federal Alcohol and Tobacco Tax and Trade Bureau. When it did so, on Dec. 11, customers lined up for a wait of two or more hours to get into the facility to sample the 120-proof spirit and purchase it at $75 a bottle or $300 a case.

Master distiller Lance Winters, 42, created the absinthe -- something he's been tinkering with for years -- for boss Jorg Rupf, a renowned maker of fruit brandies and Hangar One vodka in his St. George facility.

Winters' recipe includes a grape-based brandy blended with such herbs as wormwood, tarragon, basil, mint, anise and fennel.

St. George does not have the field to itself. Three foreign manufacturers have begun exporting absinthe to the U.S. -- Kubler (Switzerland), Absinto Camargo (Brazil) and Lucid (France). Plus, it is likely other domestic distillers will join the wave to restore absinthe to consumer consciousness.

One of absinthe's most ardent admirers, the Irish writer Oscar Wilde (1854-1900), was ambivalent on the subject of its role as devil or angel. As he wrote on two different occasions:

“A glass of absinthe is as poetical as anything in the world. What difference is there between a glass of absinthe and a sunset?”

And:

“After the first glass, you see things as you wish they were. After the second, you see things as they are not. Finally, you see things as they really are, and that is the most horrible thing in the world.”

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Up against the wall, art lovers

Functional art sometimes is as alluring as just-look-at-it art. This exhibition in Dresden, Germany of artist Hannes Broecker's work is such a thing.

Broecker hung flat, glass containers with a variety of cocktails in the exhibition space. As the night progressed, the levels of the multi-coloured infusions diminished as visitors took advantage of the spigots at the bottom of each piece. By the end of the event, reports Andrew J. Weiner of the Australian site The Cool Hunter, "the art itself ran dry, and empty drinking glasses were returned to where they were originally placed" -- in an artistic arrangement on the floor near the wall mountings.

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20080429

Great moments in marketing

From the AnimalNewYork.com site:

Belvedere's Blow Job Ad

In a painfully forced effort to become the ultra coolest luxury vodka, Belvedere has pulled out all the stops: by getting Terry Richardson to shoot its latest print campaign; by getting Vincent Gallo to appear in the ads; by getting rap stars to plug it in songs; and by seemingly sponsoring every nighttime gathering of ten people or more south of 14th street.

Up until now, the ads have been — sexually-speaking — pretty staid. Now, I've been accused of being overly sensitive to phallic symbolism in liquor ads once or twice in the past. But after examining the latest Belvedere ad I think you'll agree with me that Richardson has purposely produced a blow job ad with a penis bottle.

-- Copyranter

NOTE: Double-click on ad to enlarge image.

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Caribbean rums get 'marque of provenance'

I don't know if it will make much difference to consumers but the West Indies Rum & Spirits Producers' Association (WIRSPA) has unveiled what it calls a "marque of provenance."

It will be used to designate and promote Authentic Caribbean Rum (ACR) as a distinct sector within the rum category.

Individual ACR brands have distinctive processes of distillation, aging and blending. But, the new marque will incorporate a three-tier classification system based on maturation and premium positioning. The tiers:

Authentic Caribbean Rum: A black-and-white version of the marque will appear on rums produced from sugar cane or molasses within Africa, Caribbean and Pacific region.

• Matured ACR: A silver-and-black version will signify rums from the region matured for a minimum of one year.

Deluxe ACR: A gold-and-black version will signify rums matured for five years or more.

Neil Morris, head of marketing at WIRSPA said: "The Caribbean is the recognized home of rum and offers a hugely diverse range of brands. With the popularity of rum increasing year on year, there is no doubt that consumers are not only looking to explore brands, but are also seeking some help in the selection process. The new ACR marque will, we believe, help meet both these objectives."

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20080424

What will they think of next? (May edition)

This month marks a lot of things -- May Day, of course, plus Kentucky Derby Day, Cinco de Mayo, Mother's Day, Memorial Day, National Hoagie Day, Limerick Day, Eliza Doolittle Day, National Hamburger Day, End Of The Middle Ages Day, National Macaroon Day ... Here's a collection of cocktails to use in marking certain special days.

Triple Orange Margarita

Cinco de Mayo celebrations have grown from Mexico to be celebrated around the world. And with May 5th -- which commemorates a Mexican victory over the invading French at the Battle of Puebla in 1862 -- looming, that Mexican cocktail icon klnown as the margarita comes to the fore. Here is one from Ronaldo P. Colli, mixologist at the Americano restaurant in San Francisco, who was asked by the makers of GranGala Triple Orange Liqueur to come up with a seasonal margarita (shown above) showcasing their product.

1½ oz. ultra premium tequila
¾ oz. GranGala Triple Orange Liqueur
1 ounce orange juice, freshly squeezed
½ oz. lime juice, freshly squeezed
¼ oz. agave nectar
1 lime wheel
1 orange peel

Pour GranGala, tequila, orange juice, lime juice, agave nectar and orange peel into a shaker with ice. Shake vigorously and strain into a chilled glass filled with ice. Strain into a chilled margarita glass if you prefer your margarita up. Garnish with a lime wheel and the same orange peel on top of the cocktail. Salted rim is traditional, but optional.

(Agave nectar is a natural sweetener. Adjust according to desired sweetness. Available at gourmet stores or from online retailers.)

THE 54 JULEP

I don't often give space to a product or recipe simply because a certain date has rolled around again. However, in the case of the Kentucky Derby, how can one resist? The type of whiskey used in a Mint Julep is sometimes a matter of opinion. Various distillers like to push their own products, of course. Jimmy Russell, master distiller of Wild Turkey, insists on Wild Turkey 101, and since on May 1 he'll be witnessing his 54th derby, he has a lot of seniority.

2½ oz. Wild Turkey 101
3 sprigs of mint (six to eight mature-sized leaves)
1½ teaspoons brown sugar
½ cup crushed ice

In a traditional silver julep cup or double-old fashioned glass as seen above, mull two sprigs of mint with the brown sugar and one ounce of Wild Turkey 101 for a few minutes, crushing the mint leaves with a spoon. Add the crushed ice, the rest of the bourbon, and garnish with sprig of mint.
SCARLETT O'HARA

And, finally, in honor of the opening of the musical stage version of "Gone With the Wind" in New York City, I found this recipe on the Recipezaar.com site.

1½ oz. peach brandy (1 jigger)
1½ oz. Southern Comfort (1 jigger)
Juice of 1 lime
1 tsp. maraschino cherry juice
Crushed ice

Put all ingredients except ice into blender. Blend for a few seconds. Add ice to fill blender about halfway. Combine on high speed.

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20080423

Dept. of Never Throw Anything Away

An extremely rare El-Bart Dry Gin tin advertising sign, made in 1905 for the Wilson Distilling Co. Kaufmann & Strauss Co., Lithographers, of New York, sold for $60,500 at the sale of The George Cross Collection in Ann Arbor, MI.

“This was one of the finest collections of its kind in the United States,” said Mike Eckles of Showtime Auction Services. “Nearly everything Mr. Cross owned was in mint or near-mint condition. It was a treasure trove for serious collectors who were attracted to the high quality merchandise and the fact that every lot was sold without minimums or reserves. Everything went, regardless of price.”

Cross, who died several weeks before the auction, had a huge collection that included advertising and country store collectibles, Old West memorabilia, etc. By the end of the weekend, about 1,880 lots had changed hands.

The El-Bart Dry Gin sign, still housed in its original gesso frame, was the sale’s top lot. About 500 people made it to the event, in addition to the nearly 2,000 registered online bidders through eBay Live and iCollector.com. Also, more than 1,000 phone bids and about 1,500 absentee were recorded. The sale grossed about $2.7 million.

Other alcoholic-beverage-related highlights from the sale:

• A Buffalo Brewing Co. tin charger in a gold gesso frame and in near-mint condition, was expected to bring about $12,000, but soared to $57,750.

• A rare Buffalo Brewing Co. reverse glass sign (for Buffalo Beer), near-mint and in a gold leaf gesso frame, brought $50,850.

• An H. Guggenheimer & Co., reverse glass sign (Distillers of Fine Whiskies, Cincinnati, OH; Napoleon Wine Co., Napoleon, OH), possibly a one-of-a-kind and in near-mint condition, with a sepia-tone image of a nude at a dressing table, brought $38,500.

•  A rare Henry Hunter Fine Old Rye Whiskey tin sign, titled “East Meets West” (A. Hirschman& Co., Proprietors, St. Paul, MN.; Tuscarora Advertising Co. Lithographers, Coshocton, OH), brought $38,500.

• A Days of 49 Whiskey paper sign (Meyerfield, Mitchell & Co., San Francisco), 43” x 30” overall, in its original frame and in excellent condition, brought $33,000.

• A Cyrus Noble Whiskey paper gambling scene sign titled “Bucking the Tiger” — framed under glass in a period oak frame – went for $28,600.

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Four Roses special bourbon marks 120th

Four Roses will mark its 120th anniversary next month with the issuance of a limited edition bourbon.

Four Roses Barrel Strength 120th Anniversary Limited Edition Single Barrel Bourbon Whiskey, which may be vying for the title of longest bourbon name, will be released in mid-May. It has been aged 12 years, is uncut and non-chill filtered, and has a proof range of 103 to 116. Approximately 3,000 bottles will be produced.

Company lore says Four Roses itself was named for the corsage a Southern belle wore to accept distillery founder Paul Jones Jr.'s marriage proposal.

Master distiller Jim Rutledge, a member of the Bourbon Hall of Fame, said the Anniversary Bourbon has "a mellow yet robust spiciness with delicate, fruity flavors and hints of nutmeg, vanilla, toasted almonds, baked apples and pears. The long, smooth finish includes touches of caramel and cocoa."

Formerly the nation's top-selling bourbon in the 1930s, '40s and '50s, Four Roses virtually disappeared in the '60s when then-owner Seagram began selling the brand exclusively overseas. Under new owner Kirin, Four Roses Bourbon was returned to the U.S. in 2002 with distribution limited to Kentucky, and at the same time, the blended whiskey was discontinued to focus solely on bourbon. Last year, the brand expanded distribution to New York, New Jersey, Tennessee and Illinois and further expansion is planned.

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20080421

A life well lived

Oregon has lost its oldest resident. Helen Johnson, age 111, was born July 20, 1896, in Berlin, Germany. Her family emigrated to the United States early in the 20th century and settled in Oregon.

She was, according to a California research group, the 24th oldest person in the world when she died Thursday at her home in Portland.

Here's an interesting fact, among many that come with living longer than a century. According to local news reports, Ms. Johnson "said she never smoked, but enjoyed an occasional whiskey and a vodka martini."

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The metal spine of the bourbon industry

"Vendome may not make bourbon, but its connections to the industry run as deep as any distiller. In 2005, the family was inducted into the Kentucky Bourbon Hall of Fame, and from the looks of the bar on the second floor of Vendome's offices, most of its clients are more than pleased with their equipment."

So says the Louisville (KY) Courier-Journal in an interesting story on the local company that supplies the guts for the stills that create wonderful whiskies. Read it here.

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Stoli bumps flavor portfolio again

Stolichnaya doesn't rest on its laurels.

The Pernod Ricard USA company that introduced flavored vodkas to the U.S. market in 1986, thereby touching off a race with competitors to have the most such offerings, has just introduced "Blakberi" -- blackberry-infused grain vodka.

Stoli's portfolio already included such flavors as peach, strawberry, raspberry, orange, vanilla, citrus and cranberry as well as blue, red and gold label expressions.

As with any company's newest release, Stoli has come up with a variety of cocktail recipes using their newest creation. Here's one, as pictured above:

BLAKBERI BLUES
2 parts Stoli Blakberi
1 part Stoli Blueberi
1 part cranberry juice
1 part simple syrup
Splash of raspberry liqueur
Squeeze of lemon
Sage to taste

Muddle sage. Combine with ingredients, shake vigorously over ice and strain into a cocktail glass. Garnish with one blueberry, one blackberry and sage.

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20080419

Tequila sign fight a very tall tale

Patron Tequila likes to advertise its big taste. But a banner for the product obviously is a bit too big for city officials in Long Beach, CA.

An 11-story banner unfurled on the Villa Riviera oceanfront tower last weekend in preparation for this weekend's Grand Prix motor race is the cause of the fuss.

The city says the banner was put in place without proper permits, and demands its removal. The residents association that owns the building says that's a matter for the city to take up with the company that paid the residents group a $15,000 fee for permission to unfurl the banner.

By the name the kerfuffle is settled, of course, the Grand Prix event will be over and the banner removed.

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Russia's cognac region adding whiskey

If most people know of the Russian Federation's North Caucasus republic of Daghestan at all, is is for its cognacs. Now, a spokesman for the republic's Industry Ministry said it is planning to open a whisky distillery.

Alibek Irazikhanov, director general of the Whisky of Russia company, said the first batch of whisky from the distillery will go on sale in Russia in three years.

"The estimated cost of the project, which should be recouped in three years, is 220 million rubles ($9.4 million)," he said, noting that $2.15 million already has been invested in the project.

The cognacs of the region -- even though the French have for generations tried to get its makers to stop using the name "cognac" in defference to the French region and product of that name -- have long been known for their quality. In just one example, the English writer and adventurer Arthur Augustus Thurlow Cunynghame wrote in his 1872 chronicle "Travels in the Eastern Caucasus, on the Caspian and Black Seas":

"In my opinion ... there is really no good wine made in the Crimea, or on the Don, or in the Caucasus. ... The cognac brandy, however, which is also made here, is by no means a bad imitation of the genuine French article."

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The case (or 31 of them) of the missing whisky

The British Revenue & Customs people are convinced a shipment of 186 bottles of a rare cask of Highland Park Scotch whisky left Glasgow Airport as scheduled.

What they don't know is what happened to it.

The shipment, valued at $240,000US, was aboard a Delta Airlines flight bound for Los Angeles, intended to be delivered to Saybrex International, a Beverly Hills spirits company. The 32-year-old whisky is rated as one of the top single malts in the world.

“We are shocked and outraged that 31 cases of alcohol weighing some 800 pounds can just disappear while in the care of Delta and various governmental agencies,” said Ari Bussel, Saybrex International's vice president of operations.

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The price of nightclub 'star' gazing

Portfolio magazine interviewed Noah Tepperberg, owner of the swank Manhattan nightclub Marquee (currently grossing $13 million), and asked this question about high-priced drinks that come with special seating:

Portfolio: "Why would any person who's not deranged want to pay $400 for a $30 bottle of vodka?"

Tepperberg: "I'll turn that around on you. Why do people pay $2,000 for front-row seats at great concert? In other words, inside nightclubs, there's a show that goes on. There's a voyeuristic aspect. It’s this social show. People want, you know, to have a good seat in the middle of that. And they pay a premium for the liquor, which is really just another way of charging for the real estate."

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20080416

Through the kaleidoscope

William M. Dowd photos

Sometimes a swirl/sip/spit tasting doesn't do the spirit or wine justice. That's when it's time to whip out the kaleidoscope.

Not the iconic toy used to dazzle youngsters with color displays. In this case, it's something Dr. Bill Lumsden (right) came up with to help samplers of his whiskies from The Glenmorangie distillery broaden their experience.

Lumsden, Glenmorangie's head of distilling and whisky creation, and his associates went beyond the usual palate expressions for their tasting to bring the whole sense experience into play. The categories of the "kaleidoscopic tasting" process are:

• Refreshing and cooling
• Luscious and tropical
• Stimulating and zesty
• Mellow and mature
• Warming and vibrant
• Velvety and sumptuous
• Comforting and silky
• Mellow and mature

The tasting is accompanied by a slide-show that adds a visual aspect to the event along with strong suggestions for the palate.

Here's how it works, using "refreshing and cooling" as an example.

Look for the cooling notes, a touch of mint, a touch of cool green in the color, a hint of pear in the top notes. The slide-show accompanying the tasting provides complementary images such as a woman with cool water running over her hair, and a fresh sprig of mint.

Or, looking for the "luscious and tropical" aspects of the whisky, the on-screen images show a heavily-lipsticked set of pouty lips, a ripe peach, the silhouette of a palm tree against a sunset.

I participated in such a tasting last week in Louisville, KY. The four-whisky sampling set included the original Glenmorangie, the 18 Years Old expression, The LaSanta and Astar, the newest whisky in the portfolio.

Bearing Lumsden's guidance in mind, here's what I experienced:

Original Glenmorangie: This expression is light both in color and on the palate, with ethereal floral notes that open more when a few drops of water are added. Bold vanilla mixed with herbals of mint, fennel and thyme, as well as a bit of mild orange and a comforting warmth.

18 Years old: This is the "big brother" of the original, 100% of it aged in ex-bourbon casks for 15 years, then 30% of it re-racked in ex-olorosso sherry casks, then blended. It has very pungent floral notes, topped by jasmine along with honey and lemon. With water the oiliness is released along with lots of leather, honey and nuttiness. Long aftertaste and clingy mouthfeel.

The LaSanta:The name is Gaelic for warmth or passion, and the taste reflects it. After at least 10 years' aging in bourbon wood, this single malt gets extra time in ex-sherry casks, usually two years. Its gorgeous amber color set up the palate for a quick burst of toffee, cocoa and caramel, along with the tang of allspice and cinnamon. Water releases an acidic balsamic note, followed by those of walnuts and hazelnuts. The finish is slightly oily with a peppery edge and lingering touches of mace, vanilla and guava.

Astar:The name is Gaelic for journey. There is a surprising burst of white chocolate in the nose, along with some pineapple and menthol. With water, more spices plus hints of balsamic and coconut flavors play around the edges. Although this whisky is very spicy, there is no unpleasant bite. Nuttiness, vanilla, creme brulee all come to mind. I find this the closest thing to bourbon in the Glenmorangie portfolio.

Last fall, I had the opportunity to sample a somewhat different lineup of Glenmorangie whiskies at a private tasting session in Manhattan. Two in particular stood out:

• Quinta Ruban: This whisky has been aged in used bourbon barrels, then transferred for extra aging in port barrels. The result is a lovely combination of the essences that make bourbon so unique as well as the additional smoothing from the port-soaked wood.It envelops the tongue in a warm, smooth coating then moves on to release notes of chocolate, caramel and even a touch of mint. The complexity of flavors and aromas make this a whisky worth lingering over.

Nectar D'Or: From aging in ex-bourbon barrels to finishing in used sauternes casks makes for an unusual result. Sauternes is a sweet, delicate French wine, usually served as a dessert wine, made from Semillon, Sauvignon Blanc and Muscadelle grapes that have been affected by Botrytis cinerea, the "noble rot.'' Thus, the characteristics it imparts to the 10-year-old Scotch during the two-year extra aging process are truly unique. The Nectar D'Or contains some of the distinct flavor notes of the partially raisined Sauternes wine, with a pleasing golden color. Fruit, honey, a touch of spice and a long, lingering finish make this a desireable whisky.

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Men, do not read this item

Rain Vodka has decided to play up the fact it is "organic" by adding the word to its name and debuting it at the “All Things Organic” conference and trade show in Chicago April 27–29.

Elizabeth Cawood, vodka brand manager of the Sazerac Co. which makes Rain at the Buffalo Trace Distillery, explains (bold-face type emphasis is mine):

“While Rain has been organic from the beginning, we feel it’s important to let our female consumers know we are certified by the USDA and we go the extra mile to make the finest vodka possible. If you are interested in serving or drinking an organic martini, Rain is the obvious choice.”

In case any men have read this far despite the warning headline, they may want to share the knowledge the women have, that "Rain is hand-made in small batches using white organic corn and is distilled seven times for exceptional taste and smoothness. ... A 750ml bottle of Rain retails between $18 and $22."

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20080415

Another master distiller stepping down

William M. Dowd photo

Maker’s Mark master distiller David Pickerell has left the bourbon maker after 14 years, according to a company announcement.

No reason was given except that euphemistic catch-all phrase "to pursue other interests."

Pickerell is being replaced by Kevin Smith (above, conducting a distillery tour), who joined the company in 1998 as a master distiller in training.

“We are grateful for Dave’s many contributions to Maker’s Mark and wish him all the best,” Bill Samuels Jr., president of the Loretto, KY, distillery, said in a statement.

He is the second master distiller to step down in recent weeks. In February, Jimmy Bedford, 68, announced he was retiring on March 31 as master distiller for Jack Daniel's, where he had held the post for the last 20 of his 40 years with the Lynchburg, TN, company. No successor has yet been named there.

You can take a brief your of the Maker's Mark facility via video, hosted by a familiar actor who has had plenty of experience playing a drinking man. Cheers!



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20080414

Great Moments In Politics

Eddie Nahlawi plans to open the Grand Station Restaurant in Arlington Heights, IL, in June. Luckily for him, the rest of the village board isn't as loony as Village President (Mayor) Arlene Mulder (right) when it comes to the sign he's planning for the exterior.

The word "cocktails" was supposed to take up 20 inches of the 12-foot high sign and be the smallest word on the sign. However, Mulder objected to the use of the word "cocktail" instead of "lounge" or "pub." Her so-called logic:

"Pub and lounge are more about the atmosphere. Cocktails sounds like it's about drinking."

The board voted 8-1 to approve the sign. Mulder, who at least had voted earlier to approve the business, was the lone dissenter.

Said Nahlawi, "To me, cocktails is an old-fashioned word for alcoholic beverages. There's an Irish pub across the street, and Fuego is also a margarita bar. People come to downtown Arlington Heights for drinks. It's a word that fits the visual atmosphere in downtown Arlington Heights."

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Sazerac flops in Louisiana Senate

The Sazerac may have the reputation of being the quintessential New Orleans cocktail, but the Louisiana Senate isn't having any of it. At least on paper.

A proposal to make The Sazerac the official state cocktail has been rejected by the legislative body.

State Sen. Ed Murray introduced the bill because he said it was created in his hometown and has become world famous. However, others called it inappropriate to honor an alcoholic beverage.

"Is there a possibility that we could be encouraging folks, who were not intending to drink, that it would be acceptable and they could become an alcoholic?" asked Sen. Buddy Shaw.

"No," Murray responded, short and to the point.

However, the proposal fell to a 27-8 vote.

According to GumboPages.com, "This is the quintessential New Orleans cocktail. There are those who say this is the first cocktail, period. There's a lot of dispute over this, but it's certainly the first to appear in New Orleans, which has been acknowledged by many as the home of the cocktail.

" It is said that this drink was invented by Antoine Amadie Peychaud, a Creole apothecary who moved to New Orleans from the West Indies and set up shop in the French Quarter in the early 1800s. He dispensed a proprietary mix of aromatic bitters from an old family recipe, to relieve the ails of his clients ... and around the 1830s he became famous for a toddy he made for his friends. It consisted of French brandy mixed with his secret blend of bitters, a splash of water and a bit of sugar.

" ... Before long, the demand for this drink led to its being served in bars throughout the city ... . One of these ... was named the Sazerac Coffeehouse."

Here's a recipe for a basic Sazerac. Although some establishments make it with bourbon, using rye whiskey is more authentic:
THE SAZERAC COCKTAIL

1 tsp. simple syrup (or 1 sugar cube or 1 tsp. granulated sugar)
3 to 4 dashes Peychaud's bitters
2 ounces rye whiskey (most New Orleans bars use Old Overholt)
¼ tsp. Herbsaint, a New Orleans anise liqueur (may substitute Pernod)
Strip of lemon peel

The traditional method:

Pack a 3½-ounce Old Fashioned glass with ice. In a cocktail shaker, moisten the sugar cube with just enough water to saturate it, then crush. Blend with the whiskey and bitters. Add a few cubes of ice and stir to chill. Discard the ice from the first glass and pour in the Herbsaint. Coat the inside of the entire glass, pouring out the excess. Strain the whiskey into the Herbsaint coated glass.

Twist the lemon peel over the glass so that the lemon oil cascades into the drink, then rub the peel over the rim of the glass; do not put the twist in the drink.
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SC vodka unveils sweet tea infusion

As Southern beverages go, a lot more people extol the virtues of sweet tea than they do vodka. Now, we're about to find out what happens when you combine the two.

Two years ago, as I reported at the time, Firefly Vodka made its debut in South Carolina with a muscadine grape-based distillation. The grapes were grown on Wadmalaw Island, SC, then distilled at a Florida facility. It received an 89 rating ("highly recommended") from the Beverage Testing Institute in May 2006.

Now, the company is introducing Firefly Sweet Tea Vodka. Again, the flavoring ingredient comes from Wadmalaw Island where owners Scott Newitt and Jim Irvin live and now have their own distillery. Their new 70-proof vodka is sweetened with Louisiana sugar cane, and should play well in South Carolina where sweet tea is the official state drink.

“We’re the first distillery in the state and the only distillery in the world that distills muscadine wine into vodka,” Newitt said in an interview with The State newspaper of Columbia. Next up, he added, will be vodkas infused with locally-grown peaches and watermelons. All Firefly products will have “Certified South Carolina Grown” labels.

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Ministry of Sound pushing new vodka

The Ministry of Sound, the South London nightclub that since its 1991 inception, has branched out into TV, radio and club franchises, is climbing aboard the vodka bandwagon.

A new marketing campaign is being launched to create a buzz for the product, particularly among the Ministry of Sound’s clubbing fraternity plus the broader 18-30-year-old consumer niche.

For those not embedded in the club scene, here's a sample of what it looks like and how they are pushing the vodka brand:



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New vodka venture is small potatoes

When one calls a vodka "crisp," it usually refers to its character.

But, say "crisp" around Will Chase (right) and he'll think opportunity.

Chase, an entrepreneurial farmer and food product maker in Herefordshire, England, recently sold his majority stake in the popular Tyrells crisps (potato chips, for those of the American persuasion) company for about $60 million. Using some of that money, he hopes to parlay it into another success, this time in the vodka business.

Chase has overseen the growth of his premium-end snacks, made using home-grown potatoes, since their 2002 launch. His new venture will use potatoes to small to made made into crisps/chips to produce up to 3,500 bottles of vodka a week.

Tyrrells Potato Vodka will immediately check into the ultra-premium niche, retailing at about $65 per 750ml bottle. It will be distilled in traditional style, using copper batch pots to boost the quality of the alcohol.

Distiller Jamie Baxter told The Press Association, "There is a chemical reaction between the alcohol and the copper which improves the vodka. Most vodka is distilled using stainless steel then finished off in copper. ... We've got to make the product and get it out in front of people, but I think they are going to like it. It's an interesting story which I think people are going to buy into."

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20080412

Canada's Glen Breton loses labeling battle

A Canadian federal court has refused to register the "Glen Breton" trademark for a single malt whiskey produced in Nova Scotia.

The decision is a victory for the Scotch Whisky Association which has vigorously objected to the proposed trademark, saying the use of the word "glen," widely used on Scotches made in Scotland, would confuse and mislead consumers.

Evidence filed by the SWA included more than 30 instances of "Glen Breton" being described in Canada as "Scotch whisky" in retail stores, newspaper and magazine articles, price lists, menus and Web sites.

As I reported earlier, the SWA didn't get anywhere with Canada's Trade-Marks Opposition Board, which agreed with Glenora Distillers International Ltd. of Cape Breton when it said there would be no confusion.

The distillers claimed the use of the word "glen" is legitimate because the company is named Glenora, the community is named Glenora, it is next to a community called Glenora Falls, and coupling "glen" with "breton" is merely a legitimate combination of local place names.

In January, the Trade-Marks Opposition Board in Ottawa ruled in favor of Glenora. The SWA appealed the decision, claiming Glenora is "unfairly trading on Scotch whisky's international reputation."

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20080411

Should medal floods be slowed to a trickle?

Over the years I've been involved in a variety of spirits and wine judgings that use sharply different methods for awarding medals.

Some are known for being stringent with the honors. Others are known as treasure troves of medals for winemakers and distillers panting after gold, silver or even, heaven help us, bronze trinkets to feature in their advertising.

The most recent major event where this cropped up was the San Francisco World Spirits Competition where 88.5% of the entrants got a medal of some sort (749 of 847) after the competition was split, then split again and again, into 439 categories.

As one reader e-mailed me, "Don’t you think it odd that out of 847 entries 88.5% win an award?"

Odd, no. Untoward, yes. And it's not the only such example. A few others from this year:

• In the Florida State Fair International Wine and Grape Juice Competition, held in Tampa, entries were judged by individual state and one group of "foreign" entries, resulting in the awarding of a whopping 155 gold medals.

• In the Newport (OR) Seafood & Wine Festival's Commercial Wine Competition, a mere 156 entries won 99 gold medals.

One of the original judges in the San Francisco competition, who I ran into on a recent business trip to Kentucky, said there is anything but unanimity among the judges about the number of medals handed out.

He confirms that event founder Anthony Dias Blue pushes them hard every year to hand out a large number of medals. He also confirms that, although he'd prefer not to be publicly identified because he likes the gig, he and others will continue to be somewhat resistant to being responsible for a medal flood.

There are two schools of thought on that topic. One is that lots of medals guarantee lots of entries for the following year, and thus a better income stream for such events. The other is that too many medal awards ends up cheapening the value of the honors.

I'm a proponent of the latter school. I understand it is more difficult to get a new event ratcheted up if you don't give out a decent batch of medals right from the start to attract even more competitors. However, if you're too generous right away, you're stuck being just as generous as the field grows, which proportionally gets rather sticky and the event reputation comes under suspicion of being nothing more than a medal factory.

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20080406

SF World Spirits a heavy medal event

The publicity departments of gazillions of spirits makers have been in high gear in recent weeks, cranking out press releases touting the medals their companies' products picked up at the recent San Francisco World Spirits Competition.

True, the event is regarded by many in the industry as, if not the Super Bowl, at least the divisional championships of distilled products. Not bad for an event that began just eight years ago when Antony Dias Blue put it together. He and competition director F. Paul Pacault have brought it to great international attention, so much so that this year 847 entries -- 132 more than last year's record number -- were submitted from around the globe.

The reason most writers don't do anything with each and every medal announcement is that the competition is split, then split again and again, into 439 categories. Counting double gold (unanimous gold votes from the judges), gold, silver and bronze medals, 749 trinkets were handed out.

Among the major awards:

Distiller of the Year: Buffalo Trace Distillery USA.
Importer of the Year: Moët Hennessy USA.

Other major awards:

Best in Show / White: Weber Haus, Silver Cachaça, Brazil.
Best in Show / Whisk(e)y: Highland Park, 12-year-old Single Malt Scotch, Orkney Islands, Scotland.
• Best in Show / Brandy: Loujan, 1979 Armagnac, Bas Armagnac, France.
Best in Show / Liqueur: Domaine de Canton, Ginger Liqueur, France.

Category "top" awards:

Top Absinthe: Vieux Pontarlier Absinthe (new category this year).
• Top Vodka: Snow Queen Vodka.
Top Gin: Plymouth Gin.
• Top Rum: Matusalem Rum.
•  Top Tequila: AsomBroso Silver.
• Top Reposado Tequila: El Tesoro.
Top Añejo Tequila:Siete Leguas.
Top Extra-Aged Añejo Tequila: Don Julio.
Top Irish Whiskey: Jameson, Rare Vintage Irish Whiskey.
Top Rye Whisk(e)y: Rittenhouse Rye Whiskey.
Top Blended Scotch: Chivas Regal, 25 Year Old Scotch.
Top Bourbon: Pappy Van Winkle, Kentucky Straight Bourbon.
Top Cognac: Hennessy Cognac Paradis Extra.
Top Fruit Liqueur: Cointreau Orange Liqueur.
You can access the full medal list for each category here.
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20080405

Whisky Live(ly) drinks extravaganza

April Dowd photos


Go here to see more scenes from the Whisky Fest.
They're taking off the gloves in the whiskey wars, if what I saw at the annual Whisky Live event in New York Tuesday night was any indicator.

The event, one of a dozen or so held around the globe each year under sponsorship of the influential U.K. magazine Whisky, brings together acolytes of various whiskies from Scotland, Ireland, Japan and the United States.

Rather than simply pushing their familiar lineup of brands, each year we're seeing more and more limited-edition distillations and new sub-genre niche products.

And, the long-reigning big boys are becoming targets as well. Just ask Brian Dvoret.

He's the national sales executive and self-proclaimed "company Scotch geek" for The Speyside, maker of an excellent 12-year-old single highland malt he challenges all to compare directly to the competition's Johnnie Walker Blue Label, one of the superstars of blended Scotches retailing in the $180 range for the 750-milliliter bottle.

"Go ahead, just try Speyside then go try the Blue and come back and tell me what you think," Dvoret boomed to all comers at Whisky Live.

Johnnie Walker Red Label, Black Label, Gold Label and even Green Label are more accessible pricewise than Blue Label. It is, in the words of its makers, "our rarest blend ... created from the rarest and most expensive whiskies in the world."

In fact, the company's explains its process this way: "(It) recreates the flavors of the Walkers' early whiskies (of the 1820s) ... . Every single component ... has been handpicked from exclusive distilleries, some of which are no longer in existence. As soon as they're discovered, they're set aside for Blue Label and matured until their absolute peak -- no matter how long that may take."

Blue Label truly has an old style set of characteristics, and since it is a blend of 16 or so whiskies it is difficult to pinpoint the heart of it even though it is widely known to be Royal Lochnagar, a rare malt. It is at once nutty, pungent and peppery, with floral notes in the nose and initial hit on the palate as well. The traditional smokiness, accompanied by clear notes of caramel and vanilla, help make it a complex offering that is obviously superior in overall character to most others in its price range.

Taking Dvoret's challenge, I also tried The Speyside's King's Crest 25 Year Old Blended Scotch, priced like Blue Label upwards of $200 a bottle. I found it a worthy competitor, perhaps even superior in the peaty, hazlenut flavors that removed all traces of any unpleasant heat.

But one couldn't spend too much time on any one or two styles. There were American bourbons, Japanese Scotches, Irish whiskies and other temptations to sample.

A few highlights and news notes gleaned from wandering the aisles in between trips to a lavish buffet and a break to listen to a Scottish folk/pop/fusion/rock band:

• A representative for The Famous Grouse, asked if best-selling author W.E.B. Griffin (40 million copies of 35 novels in print worldwide) is on the distiller's payroll since he frequently makes mention of the Scotch in his novels, replied: "You can't imagine how many times we're asked that. As best I have been able to find out, he's just a fan of the brand and has no other connection to it."

• Michter's, the adventuresome American distiller, not only had its entire line of bourbons and whiskies out for sampling, its representatives also shared word that the company is planning to release an extremely limited collection -- 300 bottles of each -- of 25-year-old bourbon and 25-year-old rye in time for Father's Day in June.

• Even though purists might insist Scotch whisky can be made only in Scotland, the huge Japanese distiller Suntory was pushing its Yamazaki and winning over visitors to its pouring table with excellent 12- and 18-year-old single malts. They are produced using copper pot stills and a process the company calls "mostly peat free." Both expressions are full bodied, coppery gold liquids. The 12 is replete with wood, malt, honey and fruit notes; the 18 sweeter, with elements of strawberry, honey and toffee.

• Jameson's newest irish whiskey expressions, released in the past few weeks, do the brand proud. The Jameson Rarest Vintage Reserve, which I sampled some time ago for my "Tasting Notes" site, goes for a hefty $250, with only 1,000 bottles available in the limited-edition U.S. release. The Jameson Gold, at a more approachable $60, is a blend of cask-matured old Jameson whiskies.

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20080404

The resurrection of Canadian Club

From Advertising Age:

Alcohol marketers generally regard being labeled a brand your father would drink as a death knell, but Canadian Club's embrace of that distinction seems to be reversing one of the industry's longest-running sales declines.

Canadian Club received $3.5 million on measured media last year, 91% of which came in magazine advertising in November and December, after the "Damn Right" campaign launched.

The Canadian whiskey brand in November introduced a new campaign declaring, "Damn right your dad drank it." The mostly print effort attempted to redefine dad as less Ward Cleaver and more "Mad Men" through provocative statements like "Your mom wasn't your dad's first."

The early returns suggest it may be working. Case volume of Canadian Club in food, drug and liquor stores rose 4.4% in the 13 weeks ending March 8, outpacing the category and its dominant brand, Diageo's Crown Royal, during the same stretch, according to AC Nielsen data.

Those gains may sound modest, but in the context of Canadian Club's performance over the past two decades, they border on a revelation. Case shipments fell from 3.9 million in 1980 to 1.5 million in 1995, trickling down to 1.3 million last year, according to Impact's Annual Spirits Study.

(Read the rest of the story here.)

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Scenes from a Whisky Fest


The time: April 2, 2008
The place: The Puck Building, Manhattan.
The occasion: Whisky Fest
The usual solid turnout for the sold-out event, sponsored by Whisky Magazine, drew patrons from several generations and all walks of life to what some refer to as "the Will & Grace building" to sample whiskies from the U.S., Ireland, Scotland and Japan.

The golden statue of the impish creature known as Puck adorns the exterior of the sprawling brick building at the southeast corner of Lafayette and Houston streets, an icon used in many scenes of the "Will & Grace" sit-com to make it appear as if the show's stars lived there.

Inside, rather than a series of apartments, you'll find a series of loft-like exhibition rooms. In this instance, Whisky Fest took up several of them to accommodate pouring tables, buffet stations, and a band stage, among other things.

Here are a few more shots by photographer April L. Dowd that caught the spirit of the evening.

















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20080403

What will they think of next? (April edition)

The never-ending search for new, new, new cocktails goes on wherever there is curiosity, inherent mixology talent and an appreciative crowd. This month, in honor of the mixed weather that marks a typical spring, I've collected a trio of disparate cocktail recipes to add to your collection.

Old Blue Eyes

This simple concoction is the most expensive cocktail offered at NeoMeze, a Mediterranean restaurant/lounge in Pasadena, CA -- a $21 selection in a sea of $12 drinks.

2 parts Bombay Sapphire Gin
1 part Johnnie Walker Blue Label Scotch

Combine liquors in a shaker filled with fresh ice. Shake vigorously, strain into a chilled martini glass and garnish with a couple of olives.

Koi Cocktail

You may have seen my recent post about TY KU, the sake liqueur. Here's a recipe utilizing the neon green liquid, from About.com: Cocktails.

1 ounce TY KU liqueur
2 ounces Irish whiskey
2 drops peach bitters
lemon twist

Place the lemon twist and peach bitters in a cocktail shaker or mixing glass. Muddle well to release and mix the lemon essence and bitters. Add ice, Irish whiskey and TY KU. Shake well. Strain into a champagne flute.

• Mary Sue's Pimm's Cup

This drink was created, and copyrighted, back in '97 by the Food Network duo of Mary Sue Milliken and Sue Feniger.

Ice cubes
1 measure of Pimm's
2 measures of ginger ale
Lemon slices
Long cucumber spears
1/2 measure dry gin
Sprig of mint, for garnish

Almost fill a tall glass with ice cubes and pour Pimm's over the ice. Add the ginger ale and lemon slices, and stir briskly with the cucumber spears. Float dry gin on top and add mint sprig.

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20080401

Rum competition wrapped in gold

More than 150 brands competed for recognition in the 3rd annual Polished Palate International Rum Festival in Tampa.

The entries, judged by a 10-judge panel over a 3-day period, covered rum, rhum and cachasça products.

This year’s event featured 15 cane-spirits categories. New to the competition were the grape-based spirits grappa and pisco, which were rated separately. All spirits were tasted in Riedel Rum Stemware and judged on appearance, aroma, taste, mouthfeel and finish.

Jack Robertiello, co-host with event founder Dori Bryant, president of the Polished Palate, said, "Consumers are thirsting for more knowledge about rums and so events like the Polished Palate Rum Competition -- where writers, journalists, consultants, retailers and restaurateurs experienced in sampling the world’s best rums get a chance to rate them all together — is a giant step toward making the world of rum lovers better informed.”

The "best of category" winners:

White Rum: Mount Gay Eclipse Silver.
• Dark Rum: Temptryst Reserve.
• Rum Aged Up to 8 Years: Ron Barcelo Imperial.
• Rum Aged 9-15 Years: Tie between Diplomatico Reserva Exclusiva and Pyrat XO Reserve.
• Rum Aged +15 Years: Tie between Ron Millionario Solera Reserva Especial and Ron Zacapa 23.
Rum Liqueurs & Creams: Tie between Santa Teresa Rhum Orange Liqueur and Santa Teresa Araku.
Overproof Rum: Pusser’s Standard.
Spiced Rum: Montecristo Spiced.
Aged Rhum: Tie between J.M. V.S.O.P. and Madras Deboussier Hors d’Age.
Flavored Rhum: Madras Orange Shrubb.
Rhum Liqueur: Madras Prune Liqueur.
Flavored Cachaça: Ypioca Red Fruit.

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NY liquor board under fire

New York has a State Liquor Authority that many detractors call dysfunctional.

Steve Barnes of the Albany Times Union, the top newspaper in New York's Capital Region, has a thorough look at the SLA's problems and what is or isn't being done to correct them.. Read it online here.