Cooking up a historic stew in Mount Vernon

Dave Pickerell (left) and Bill Lumsden proofing the distillate.

MOUNT VERNON, VA -- It was a scene that would drive a credentialed chef mad. Four proud master distillers working elbow-to-elbow in the same hands-on operation, seeking to create one historic concoction. It turned out to be anything but too many "cooks" spoiling the stew.

The occasion was a one-off project to make a Scottish-style single malt whiskey in George Washington's re-created distillery on the grounds of his Mount Vernon plantation this week.

"This is surprisingly nuanced so early in the run." ...  "Is it running too hot now?" ... "This would be nice over a cube of ice." ... "Some time in the wood and I think we've got a real winner." ... "Speaking of ice, do we have any? This really needs to be cooled down." ...

The comments tended to overlap one another as the distillers and the regular distillery staff went from one still to another in the line of five that dominates the 1790s-style building that was recreated and opened in the fall of 2006.

Hands briefly grasping the copper still column to check the heat of the evaporated distillate, fingers darting in and out of the stream of clear distillate emerging from a small tube aimed at a collection vessel, tasting, testing, tasting again, suggesting modest changes in the process that would bring out the nuttiness and inherent sweetness and heat of the malted barley used to make the mash.

From left: John Campbell, Bill Lumsden, Andy Cant, Dave Pickerell.

Except for the presence of the Scottish contingent, it was a typical distilling day at Mount Vernon -- well, except for one other thing. The aforementioned barley wasn't local. It had been shipped from Scotland, ground in the ingenious gristmill adjacent to the distillery, and used to start off the process.

This was a first-ever, and it closed a circle at the distillery, where a Scotsman named James Anderson expanded his role of George Washington's farm manager to master distiller after convincing the great statesman to turn his surplus grain into what he referred to as "liquid gold."

The enterprise went on to become the largest distillery in the young nation, and operated even after Washington's death in 1799 -- until it burned to the ground in 1814, becoming forgotten for two centuries, until its foundation was uncovered in a 2000 archaeological dig.

To modern distillers used to working in highly automated, state-of-the-art facilities with their huge, towering stills, this was quite a departure -- a tightly constructed domain of wood and stone and brick and copper, the only such distillery in North America, and perhaps beyond, that is a working model of how it was done in the 18th Century.

"Modern day distilling is all carefully controlled, measured, analyzed and automated," said Dr. Bill Lumsden, master distiller and head of whiskey creation for The Glenmorangie Co. "I am truly thrilled to have the opportunity to lead this project and actually roll up my sleeves and get my hands dirty," an enthusiasm illustrated by the baggy blue coveralls he was sporting.

"As a master distiller, you genuinely learn something new every single day, so I can't wait to supplement my knowledge of making Glenmorangie with something a little bit more old fashioned."

The other Scottish experts were Andy Cant, master distiller and Cardhu Group manager who oversees a number of different distillation products including those that are the heart of the Johnnie Walker blends, and John Campbell, distillery manager at Laphroaig on the island of Islay, a post he got at the tender age of 34 as the first island native to run the distillery since it was built in 1815.

Actor portraying James Anderson peers through the steam.

This was the first visit for any of them to Mount Vernon. They were hosted by the local master distiller, Dave Pickerell, former master distiller for Maker's Mark and now an industry consultant who spends eight months of the year flying around the country to work with his 20 or so client distilleries.  

As Pickerell explained, "This was a particularly challenging opportunity in that we had to invent and build a relatively efficient means of hand-separating the grain solids from the liquid between the mashing and fermenting operations, using items that would have been generally available in the late 1700s. That is a major difference between the whiskey production process in the U.S. and Scotland. In the U.S., we generally tend to leave the grain in during fermentation and distillation."

As I reported after witnessing the first work session of the three-day project, the venture was so successful it produced an especially fine first run from which a 15-gallon cask was filled with the heads of the distillation, to be aged separately from the general run and named the "Director's Cut."

Overall, the goal was to produce 100 bottles of the single malt, to be aged three years as is the Scottish way, in specially constructed casks, then sold around the world to support various charities. The number also is in recognition of the centennial year of the Scotch Whisky Association which supported this project along with the Distilled Spirits Council of the U.S. (DISCUS).

DISCUS, not so incidentally, spearheaded $2.1 million in distilling industry financial support for the distillery reconstruction and has an ongoing relationship with the Mount Vernon complex.

A distillery worker stokes the still firebox.

To Dowd's Wine Notebook latest entry.
To Dowd's Brews Notebook latest entry.
To Dowd's Tasting Notes latest entry.
Back to Dowd's Guides home page.

Scottish-American venture a success at Mt. Vernon

The historic cask signed by Scottish distillers

MOUNT VERNON, VA -- Don't you just love it when a plan comes together ... and then exceeds expectations?

That's exactly what happened today at the recreated George Washington distillery here when master distiller Dave Pickerell and a contingent of Scottish distillers began making the first batch of single malt whiskey created here and exceeded all expectations on the first go-round.

In the normal course of commercial distilling, the first pass is completed when the "heads" of the distillate are removed and returned for a second pass through the still to smooth out this particular portion. However, the initial results were so pleasing, using local water plus malted barley brought from Scotland, that Pickerell and his colleagues decided to bottle it in ex-bourbon casks for several years of aging as Mount Vernon Malt Whisky -- no "e" in whiskey as a nod to the Scottish guests -- Director's Cut.

It went into a 15-gallon cask, christened No. 16, at about 55% alcohol by volume, or 109.2 proof. I had the distinct pleasure of pouring the second small pitcher of the new whisky from the collection container into the barrel.

It undoubtedly will fetch a decent price when ready to join previous Mount Vernon distillations, such as rye whisky and a now-aging apple brandy made several months ago.

Joining Pickerell, a well-known American distiller, were Scottish master distillers Bill Lumsden of Glenmorangie, John Campbell of Ardbeg, who also makes Laphroaig, and Andy Cant of Cardu, which makes much of the main spirit for the Johnnie Walker blends.

The effort was a joint venture supported by the Distilled Spirits Council of the U.S. (DISCUS) and the Scottish Whisky Association, which in October will mark its 100th birthday.

To Dowd's Wine Notebook latest entry.
To Dowd's Brews Notebook latest entry.
To Dowd's Tasting Notes latest entry.
Back to Dowd's Guides home page.

Going 'Mad,' Man, over classic cocktails

Which came first, protest or promotion?

Gerber (left) and Clooney. (Getty Images)

Hollywood superstar George Clooney, was arrested on March 16 for participating in a peaceful protest at the Sudanese embassy in Washington, DC.

At the same time, folks from his business entourage began talking it up that Clooney has teamed up with pal Rande Gerber, model Cindy Crawford`s restaurateur/husband, to create a new line of tequila.

Interesting how celebrity arrests and the like frequently coincide with business ventures.

The new product will be called Casamigos. Gerber said he and Clooney plan on "making the liquor available to all." I'm not sure what that means, unless it's a broad hint that it won't be priced at the premium level.

Gerber several weeks ago introduced Caliche, an aged white rum, in an interview with The Wall Street Journal. His venture with Clooney, a separate activity, was briefly mentioned in the article but didn't get big media play until this week.

To Dowd's Wine Notebook latest entry.
To Dowd's Brews Notebook latest entry.
To Dowd's Tasting Notes latest entry.
Back to Dowd's Guides home page.

Mexican tequila pioneer dead at 87

González Estrada

JALISCO, Mexico -- Julio González Estrada, 87, a prominent figure in the tequila industry, has died at his home in this western Mexican state.

In 1951, González Estrada created the Tres Magueyes brand, which later became Tequila Don Julio, one of Mexico's first premium tequila brands.

He eventually sold the brand to Diageo in a $150 million transaction. He then backed an enterprise run by two of his sons -- he and his wife Dorothea Garcia had nine children -- that made tequila under the label Reserva de los Gonzalez.

"We are deeply saddened to announce that Don Julio González Estrada, the industry legend and founder of Tequila Don Julio passed away on Tuesday, March 20," said Maggie Lapcewich, president of Diageo Global Tequila.

"González’s passion, devotion and innovative thinking changed the world’s perception of tequila. His namesake brand, Tequila Don Julio is the world’s first luxury tequila and helped create a new segment for the category. We are immensely proud to carry on his legacy and continue to craft a tequila that is worthy of his name. Our hearts and thoughts go out to his family and those that were touched by his pioneering spirit. His main ingredient was passion and passion above all else defines excellence."

To Dowd's Wine Notebook latest entry.
To Dowd's Brews Notebook latest entry.
To Dowd's Tasting Notes latest entry.
Back to Dowd's Guides home page.

Campari America joins DISCUS

WASHINGTON, DC -- The Distilled Spirits Council of the United States (DISCUS) has announced that Campari America has joined the trade association, composed of most major U.S. producers and marketers of distilled spirits.

"We are pleased to announce that Campari America has joined the Distilled Spirits Council,” said DISCUS President and CEO Peter H. Cressy. "Campari America is a top supplier in the US managing a premium portfolio that includes many popular and fast-growing products in this market, among them SKYY Vodka, Wild Turkey Bourbon, Wild Turkey American Honey, Campari, and Cabo Wabo Tequila. In addition, Campari shares DISCUS member companies’ strong commitment to corporate social responsibility and the three-tier system.”

Campari America is a wholly-owned subsidiary of Davide Campari-Milano S.p.A., which with its affiliates (Gruppo Campari), comprise an international beverage powerhouse making it the sixth-largest spirits company in the world.

Gerry Ruvo, chairman and CEO of Campari America, said, "DISCUS is the global leader in advocating responsible public policy for the distilled spirits industry. Given the significant role spirits manufacturing and sales plays in US commerce and today’s job market, we felt it important to join forces with DISCUS in support of one of America’s most valued, thriving industries."

To Dowd's Wine Notebook latest entry.
To Dowd's Brews Notebook latest entry.
To Dowd's Tasting Notes latest entry.
Back to Dowd's Guides home page.

Controversial Scottish distillery gains a step

Checkmark shows location.

• From the Aberdeen Press & Journal

Highland Council planning officials have recommended that a controversial whisky distillery on the remote Ardnamurchan Peninsula be approved, despite attracting 52 letters of objection.

However, out of 169 representations from the public -- most from non-residents -- 105 were in support of the £5 million (US$7.9 million) development by Adelphi Distillery Ltd.

The application has split the communities that line the peninsula, with West Ardnamurchan Community Council supporting the plan and Sunart Community Council -- which covers the area to the north of the proposed site at Glenbeg -- objecting to it.

To Dowd's Wine Notebook latest entry.
To Dowd's Brews Notebook latest entry.
To Dowd's Tasting Notes latest entry.
Back to Dowd's Guides home page.

Johnnie Walker says farewell to Kilmarnock

Mock funeral mourns the passing of a factory.

• From BBC News.com

KILMARNOCK, Scotland -- The historic link between Kilmarnock and Johnnie Walker whisky has come to an end after 192 years.

On Friday, the last Red Label was bottled at the Ayrshire plant before the final shift clocked off.
The world's largest distiller, Diageo, announced in 2009 that it was closing the Kilmarnock facility, where more than 700 people were employed.
Some staff are moving to other jobs, others have agreed to severance pay, and 82 are being made redundant.

The closure announcement sparked local protests and an angry reaction from First Minister Alex Salmond. But he failed to persuade Diageo to keep the plant open. Since then, nearly 200 staff have found other jobs with the company, most in Glasgow, with a few moving to the expanded bottling plant in Fife.

A total of 430 workers agreed to severance pay, and 82 have been forced into redundancy.
The last bottle of Johnnie Walker Red Label is destined for a local exhibition of the brand's history, which goes back to the first sale of Walker's Kilmarnock Whisky in 1820.

A third of Diageo's land in the town is being given to Kilmarnock College, while it decides what to do with the rest of it.

Staff at the plant are being invited back to a party this summer, when each will be presented with a limited edition special bottle of Johnnie Walker.

To Dowd's Wine Notebook latest entry.
To Dowd's Brews Notebook latest entry.
To Dowd's Tasting Notes latest entry.
Back to Dowd's Guides home page.

A special cocktail for Tim Tebow

The popular athlete.

NEW YORK -- Tebowmania already has struck many parts of the city, now that Tim Tebow is a member of the NFL's New York Jets.

Doubtless there are hundreds of businesses that would be happy to have the ultra-clean-cut athlete pay a visit. Brother Jimmy's, a sports bar in the Murray Hill neighborhood, has come up with a particularly interesting enticement.

It is offering a cocktail called "No Sex On the Beach," a non-alcoholic version of the popular drink "Sex On the Beach."

Here's a recipe for the original cocktail. A non-alcoholic version can be made by skipping the schnapps and vodka and substituting peach puree.

SEX ON THE BEACH

⅔ ounce peach schnapps
1⅓ ounces vodka
1⅓ ounces cranberry juice
1⅓ ounces orange juice

Combine ingredients in a cocktail shaker with ice. Shake and strain into a highball glass filled with ice.

To Dowd's Wine Notebook latest entry.
To Dowd's Brews Notebook latest entry.
To Dowd's Tasting Notes latest entry.
Back to Dowd's Guides home page.

Connecticut closer to Sunday sales OK

HARTFORD, CT -- Legislation to end the ban on Sunday alcohol sales cleared a major hurdle today when it passed the General Law Committee.

The revised bipartisan compromise legislation allows for alcohol sales on Sunday and certain holidays; would allow retailers to own three liquor licenses, one more than now permitted, and a task force to study other potential liquor law reforms.

The bill now moves to the Joint Finance, Revenue and Bonding Committee and then on to the full House and Senate where it must be approved by midnight on May 9, the last day of the legislative session. The bill would become effective upon passage for Sunday sales, and July 1 for all other measures.

"Bringing Connecticut’s alcohol laws into the 21st Century is a long-overdue modernization that will help give consumers the convenience they want and small businesses the opportunity to start growing,” said Jay Hibbard, vice president of the Distilled Spirits Council of the U.S. (DISCUS).

Connecticut and Indiana are the only states that still have restrictions on Sunday sales of beer, wine and spirits.

To Dowd's Wine Notebook latest entry.
To Dowd's Brews Notebook latest entry.
To Dowd's Tasting Notes latest entry.
Back to Dowd's Guides home page.

WV spirits tasting bill awaits governor's OK

CHARLESTON, WV -- Proponents of a bill that would allow consumers to sample liquors at distilled spirits outlets are waiting for the final action needed to implement it -- Governor Earl Ray Tomblin's signature.

The state legislature's action pn Saturday to pass the bill was hailed by the Distilled Spirits Council of the U.S. (DISCUS).

"States across the country are updating their liquor laws to reflect modern convenience and demand," said DISCUS Vice President David Wojnar, noting that West Virginia joins neighboring states Kentucky, Maryland, Ohio, Pennsylvania, and Virginia in allowing tasting events at restaurants, bars and now liquor stores. "Spirits tastings are a responsible marketing tool that ultimately generates revenue for the state by boosting consumer interest in premium products."

House Bill 3174, sponsored by State Rep. Bonnie Brown, gives adult consumers the opportunity to sample up to one ounce of spirits during a scheduled tasting event. The bill passed the House on February 20 and the Senate on March 10. Once signed by the governor, it would take effect June 8.

Wojnar noted that five "control states" recently have changed their laws to allow spirits tastings at distilled spirits outlets. They are Washington (2011), Michigan (2010), Virginia (2010), Maine (2009) and Vermont (2009). West Virginia would become the ninth state since 2009 to allow spirits tastings at liquor stores for a total of 36 states, according to DISCUS. Seven other states considering spirits tasting legislation are Georgia, Kansas, Mississippi, Oklahoma, Rhode Island, Utah, and Wisconsin.

"Spirits consumers are fascinated by cocktail culture and curious about how to discern between the 5,000 spirits products on the market," Wojnar said. "In today’s economy customers want to know what a particular Single Malt Scotch or Bourbon tastes like before spending $40 to $50 on a bottle."

To Dowd's Wine Notebook latest entry.
To Dowd's Brews Notebook latest entry.
To Dowd's Tasting Notes latest entry.
Back to Dowd's Guides home page.

French join the world of whiskey making

Chalk up another offbeat entry for the whiskey world. From the Cognac region of France comes a little something called Bastille 1789, a French-grain blended whiskey.

This is quite a departure for a country best known for producing wine and liqueurs, although in recent years the creation of Grey Goose and Ciroc vodkas and Citadelle gin, all respected products, have broadened the French portfolio.

The Bastille 1789 has a mashbill of barley and wheat grown in the northeast of France, an area that has long supplied barley for some Scottish distillers. It is fermented in Cognac with water from a spring in the Grand Champagne sub-region of Cognac. The distillation is done in alembic pot stills normally used for making brandy. It is aged in a combination of French Limousin oak, cherry wood and acacia casks, then blended.

The finished product is 40% alcohol by volume (80 proof) and sells for a suggested retail price of $29.95 for the 750ml bottle.

The initial limited release is being made in Washington, DC, as well as Pennsylvania,Connecticut, Florida, Illinois, Maryland, Massachusetts, New Hampshire and New Jersey, with the rest of the nation receiving product beginning in May.

To Dowd's Wine Notebook latest entry.
To Dowd's Brews Notebook latest entry.
To Dowd's Tasting Notes latest entry.
Back to Dowd's Guides home page.

Something to try in your spare time

To Dowd's Wine Notebook latest entry.
To Dowd's Brews Notebook latest entry.
To Dowd's Tasting Notes latest entry.
Back to Dowd's Guides home page.

Join me for a chat and a tasting on public radio

Regular listeners of WAMC Northeast Public Radio's "The Roundtable" may have come across wine and beer tastings done on the air. The scope will be broadened to include spirits when I visit with host Joe Donahue next Thursday, March 15.

In addition to talking about my new book, "Barrels & Drams: The History of Whisk(e)y In Jiggers and Shots," I'll be bringing along some whiskies you won't usually come across, and we'll be sampling them and sharing our reactions. So, be sure you have pencil and paper -- OK, you can use tech gadgets to make notes if you must -- to jot down the names of these unusual spirits.

"The Roundtable" is broadcast from 9 a.m. to noon. I'll be on the air at 11:30 a.m. WAMC Northeast Public Radio is heard in seven states and Canada. You can pick the station frequency that best suits you from this list.

In addition, you can download interviews from the WAMC online archive. Thus, if you miss tuning in to this live program there's no excuse for not catching up later. So there.

To Dowd's Wine Notebook latest entry.
To Dowd's Brews Notebook latest entry.
To Dowd's Tasting Notes latest entry.
Back to Dowd's Guides home page.

The whisk(e)y season is dear to Ireland, Scotland

The portal is about to open on a season dear to the Celtic folk of Ireland and Scotland and, indeed, their millions of descendants all over the U.S., Canada, Australia and elsewhere.

March 20 will bring in Alban Eiler, known elsewhere as the spring solstice or vernal equinox when day and night are the same length. Weather be damned, it means spring has arrived and will last until June 20, the longest day of the year, when we will encounter Alban Heruin, the summer solstice. (The winter solstice is Alban Arthuan, the autumn solstice Alban Elved.) In between Eiler and Heruin we have such frolics as St. Patrick's Day on March 17 and Tartan Day on April 6. Both are celebrated with merriment of many sorts, but each has a historic reason for being marked.

St. Patrick's Day honors the patron saint of Ireland who drove the snakes into the sea where they mutated and re-emerged as sharks, politicians and TV reality show producers.

Tartan Day celebrates that time in A.D. 1320 when King Robert the Bruce and his Scottish parliament sent off a letter called the Declaration of Arbroath to Pope John VIII in Rome, asking him to get the English off their backs. That worked so well that England still rules Scotland to this day despite current rumblings about some sort of separation.

Both historic events, as well as the arrival of Easter, spring and a bunch of other traditional religious and secular days, will in this span be marked in many communities with once-a-year church attendance, parades, festivals, dances, silly hats and drink specials at your favorite pub -- featuring Scotch and Irish whiskies, in particular.

The line between Scotch and Irish distillations is blurry for some, although there are true distinctions. Scotch makers allow their barley to sprout, then dry it. The Irishhttp://www.youtube.com/ use raw and malted barley while Scotch is entirely malted barley. Scotch whisky usually is distilled twice, Irish three or more times, which sometimes creates a lighter spirit. And, Scotch is cask aged for at least two years, Irish at least three. Plus, The Irish spell their spirit "whiskey," while the Scots -- and Canadians -- omit the "e."

As is the case with most such things, there is no right or wrong, best or worst. There is only personal preference.

Although Ireland has only three distilleries — Bushmills in County Antrim, Northern Ireland, and Cooley in County Louth and Midleton in County Cork, both in the Republic of Ireland — they produce a very wide range of spirits.

Bushmills, for example, is preferred by many. It is turned out in the world's oldest whiskey distillery, founded in 1608 by Sir Thomas Phillips under license from James I of England.

In Scotland, there are about 125 distilleries, ranging from tiny enterprises to major commercial venues that crank out all sorts of base whiskies for a multitude of brands. The distilling industry is the No. 2 revenue producer in Scotland, second only to North Sea oil production.

So, armed with a bit of history and a bit of knowledge, go forth and celebrate the season, no matter your heritage. Those Celts produce enough variations to satisfy any taste.

To Dowd's Wine Notebook latest entry.
To Dowd's Brews Notebook latest entry.
To Dowd's Tasting Notes latest entry.
Back to Dowd's Guides home page.

Grant & Sons releases Madeira-finish single malt

The Scottish distillery William Grant & Sons has just released a new product.

Glenfiddich Age of Discovery -- Madeira Cask Finish is a 19 year old single malt whisky. It was matured in new and refill oak casks, then re-racked into casks that were used for maturing Madeira, a sweet fortified wine.

The whisky is presented in a black glass bottle with a red cartouche compass, inside a display box decorated with illustrations that show the travels of Portuguese explorers.

The company says the Madeira cask finish celebrates the pioneering spirit of Portuguese explorers in the 15th Century. Madeira is the name of a North Atlantic archipelago and is an autonomous holding of Portugal.

To Dowd's Wine Notebook latest entry.
To Dowd's Brews Notebook latest entry.
To Dowd's Tasting Notes latest entry.
Back to Dowd's Guides home page.

Bushmills releases honey-touched whiskey

Bushmills Irish Whiskey today announced the release of Bushmills Irish Honey, the latest such product dropped in that niche in the world market.

The new expression is based on Bushmills Original Irish Whiskey, a triple-distilled product of malted Irish barley and pure Irish water. It has an added touch of Irish honey "and other natural flavors" that creates a new aroma and warmer finish.

"In creating Bushmills Irish Honey, I wanted to make a blend that had a smooth finish enhanced by warm characteristics, and that maintained the great taste and aroma of our original blend," said Colum Egan, Bushmills master distiller. "We knew that Irish honey, in the right quantity, would be the perfect ingredient to bring the blend to life."

Bushmills whiskies are produced and aged at Ireland's oldest working distillery, located County Antrim, Ireland. The company is owned by Diageo, the international spirits company.

To Dowd's Wine Notebook latest entry.
To Dowd's Brews Notebook latest entry.
To Dowd's Tasting Notes latest entry.
Back to Dowd's Guides home page.

Time to cut Michigan’s wholesale alcohol monopolies

• This commentary was written by the director of the Morey Fiscal Policy Initiative at the Mackinac Center for Public Policy, a research and educational institute headquartered in Midland, MI.

By Michael D. LaFaive

State policymakers will reform Michigan’s antiquated alcohol regulations this year if Gov. Rick Snyder adopts ideas submitted by a liquor reform advisory panel he created months ago.

Change is certainly needed; in particular, the state effectively grants monopolies to a few lucky private, for-profit beer and wine wholesalers. These regulatory privileges should be struck from state law in the name of fairness and competition.

A basic principle of economic theory is that competition — or the threat of competition — is good for consumers. Monopolies facing no such threat are generally bad.
Recent Mackinac Center for Public Policy research suggests that nationwide, such state controls raise liquor prices by between 3 and 6.3%.

In the strictest sense, a business monopoly is a single seller of goods or services. Most businesses find it difficult to maintain monopoly status in a system of rugged competition. As Nobel Memorial Prize-winning economist George Stigler has written, "Most important enduring monopolies … rest upon government policies." Cable franchises and utilities come to mind.

Beer and wine wholesalers effectively possess monopolies because state law mandates that suppliers of beer and wine grant exclusive sales territories to wholesalers for the suppliers’ products. All retailers, such as liquor stores and bars, must buy their beer and wine from their area wholesaler. The result is a territorial monopoly.

You don’t need a Ph.D in economics to understand what happens when firms obtain monopoly status: Prices rise and services suffer.

Consider just one example. In 2002, Northwest Airlines was busted for trucking beer and wine to Detroit Metro Airport instead of acquiring it through a Michigan wholesaler. According to the Detroit Free Press, Northwest reported it was saving up to $3 million per year by shipping the alcohol to the Great Lakes state, rather than buying it locally.

Now multiply this experience by the thousands of businesses licensed to sell at retail — and by their hundreds of thousands of customers — and you’ll understand the magnitude of what is effectively a state tax that benefits territorial beer-and-wine wholesale monopolies.

[Go here for the remainder of the essay.]

To Dowd's Wine Notebook latest entry.
To Dowd's Brews Notebook latest entry.
To Dowd's Tasting Notes latest entry.
Back to Dowd's Guides home page.

Push is on to let NH groceries sell spirits

• From Eagle-Tribune.com

New Hampshire residents may soon be able to stop by their local convenience store to pick up a bottle of booze.

If House Bill 1251 becomes law, the state would no longer have total control over the sale of most distilled spirits. The Granite State's grocery and convenience stores are only allowed to sell beer and wine.

But Rep. John Hikel, R-Goffstown, intends to change that. It's all about commerce and convenience, Hikel says. And increasing cross-border sales, some say.

Hikel is having trouble convincing the state Liquor Commission to back his bill. It claims the change could cost the state close to $1 million a year in additional enforcement costs to make sure liquor doesn't end up in the wrong hands.

But Hikel and other supporters of the bill, including co-sponsor Rep. Al Baldasaro, R-Londonderry, believe the state is more interested in retaining complete control over the lucrative liquor industry.

"The time has come where the state should be sharing this prosperity with the businesses of the state," Hikel said. "They are just trying to protect their territory in a big way."

Allowing New Hampshire's approximately 1,400 grocery and convenience stores to sell liquor would boost the economy, Hikel said. It would also prevent many mom-and-pop businesses from shutting down during tough times, Hikel said.

"These small grocery stores are struggling every day," he said. "This is a great jobs bill."

Hikel said only being allowed to purchase spirits at the state's 77 liquor stores is inconvenient. People have to drive an extra five to 10 miles in New Hampshire just to find a liquor store, Hikel said. If buying liquor at a food store, they are likely to purchase other products as well, he added.

To Dowd's Wine Notebook latest entry.
To Dowd's Brews Notebook latest entry.
To Dowd's Tasting Notes latest entry.
Back to Dowd's Guides home page.[Go here for the full story.]

Nebraska: Tax flavored malt beverages

• From the Omaha World-Herald

LINCOLN, NE -- State liquor officials were weighing their options ... after groups battling underage drinking won a major victory in the Nebraska Supreme Court.

The court ruled that flavored malt beverages, such as Mike's Hard Lemonade and Smirnoff Ice, should be taxed as liquor rather than beer.

Diane Riibe, executive director of Project Extra Mile, said she was "beyond ecstatic" about the outcome.

"Justice came today for Nebraska's children and taxpayers," she said Friday.

Her group has long argued that higher taxes would discourage youngsters from drinking the fruity, sweet beverages, which critics dub "alcopops."

State taxes on spirits are $3.75 per gallon compared with 31 cents per gallon for beer.

Hobert Rupe, executive director of the Nebraska Liquor Control Commission, said the ruling puts Nebraska out of step with the federal government and most other states.

It would mean an increase in the cost of flavored malt beverages and would force them out of stores that are licensed to sell beer only, he said.

Rupe said the commission is considering its next step. Among the options, it is seeking a rehearing from the state high court. Another is to redouble efforts to change state law.

The commission backs a bill awaiting first-round debate that would classify -- and tax -- the drinks as beer.

To Dowd's Wine Notebook latest entry.
To Dowd's Brews Notebook latest entry.
To Dowd's Tasting Notes latest entry.
Back to Dowd's Guides home page.