A celebri-quote: Jim Murray

• Jim Murray, author of the United Kingdom's renowned Whisky Bible, ruffled a lot of feathers with some comments he made while releasing the 2010 edition of his guide, the top-selling such publication in the UK. His top pick was Sazerac 18 Year Old, a Kentucky rye.

"There is still a sneering attitude in some quarters that, if it is not made in Scotland, then somehow it is not proper whisky.

"I don't think the Scots have a lot to be complacent about at the moment in terms of whisky. While the best is still exceptional, there is a lot of Scotch whisky out there which is really not good at all."

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Guide names Sazerac Rye world's best whiskey

Sazerac Rye isn't the most recognized whiskey in the world, but it certainly is a respected one.

Its latest accolade comes across the pond, where the 2010 Whisky Bible, the UK's top-selling guide, has named the 18-year-old Sazerac Rye from Kentucky THE best whisky/whiskey, including the UK's beloved Scotches.

It topped 3,850 other whiskies that were considered, with Ardbeg Supernova from the Hebridean island of Islay as No. 2 after dominating the awards for the past three years. Interestingly, an Indian whiskey, Amrut Fusin from Bangalore, was No. 3.

Jim Murray, author of the guide, described the rye as "reaching previously unknown heights. ... In beating all other world-whiskey types, Sazerac 18 has set the bar for rye whiskey and it will be fascinating in forthcoming years to see what is bottled to at least match it."

Harlen Wheatley is the master distiller at the Franklin County, KY, facility of Buffalo Trace, which makes Sazerac and other brands.

Murray told news media that "There is still a sneering attitude in some quarters that, if it is not made in Scotland, then somehow it is not proper whisky. I don't think the Scots have a lot to be complacent about at the moment in terms of whisky. While the best is still exceptional, there is a lot of Scotch whisky out there which is really not good at all."

In recent years, Buffalo Trace has emerged as arguably the world's top whisky maker if one goes by industry awards.

Malt Advocate magazine's Malt Society names the Sazerac 19 top American whiskey in 2001 and 2005; Malt Advocate Distiller of the Year in 2000, 2005 and 2006; Whisky Magazine (a UK publication) Distiller of the Year in 2005 and 2007; Wine Enthusiast Magazine Distiller of the Year in 2006, and so on.

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A celebri-quote: Lady Gaga

• Lady Gaga (a/k/a Stefani Joanne Angelina Germanotta), 23, is arguably the hottest dance music star in show biz today. The irrepressible, gaudily-attired American singer (her latest album is "The Fame Monster") didn't get that way by wasting her time doing the club scene, as she noted in an MTV interview.

"I don't go to nightclubs. You don't see pictures of me falling out of a club drunk.

"I don't go -- and that's because I usually go and then, you know, a whiskey-and-a-half into it, I got to get back to work.

"Because I love my work so much, I find it really hard to go out and have a good time."

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First English single malt going to market

Chalk up one more single malt whisky for the UK, but don't credit this one to Scotland.

The English Whisky Co., which operates St. George's Distillery in Norfolk, has gone to market with its own single malt, complete with a label showing St. George in dragon-slaying mode.

David Fitt, distiller at St. George's, tells local news media the reaction from the Scots has been fast and sometimes furious. One angry e-mail proclaimed, "You've betrayed Scotland."

The whisky which will go on sale beginning December 16 has been aging since 2006, when the first barrels were produced.

St. George's is the first and only registered whisky distillery in England. It is using barley grown in Norfolk along with Breckland water. Forsyths of Rothes, which has been servicing the whisky industry since the late 1800s, built the equipment in the distillery, including the copper stills. Iain Henderson, a former manager at the Laphroaig Distillery, oversaw the initial production.

The company says next year it will bottle a peaty spirit distilled by Henderson. It also plans to experiment with sherry and Madeira casks, and plans a special English whisky for the 2012 Olympic Games to be held in the UK.

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New vodka a protein-infused style

Some years ago, in a TV commercial for a certain brand of cheese, an actor turned up his nose every time the voiceover informed viewers that a competing brand contained "casein."

To many people, that meant casein -- from the Latin word for cheese and pronounced kay/scene -- was a bad thing. To those who know it is the main phosphoprotein that makes up 80% of the proteins in cow's milk and cheese, we wondered what the big deal was. But, as always, advertising won out.

The creators of a new vodka called Devotion are hoping drinkers will accept casein as a good thing, because they've added it to their spirit and are pushing the drink as a jolly way for athletes to hydrate for muscle recovery.

Devotion Spirits is a San Francisco company founded last year by Drew Adelman, a nightlife and dining aficionado and fitness buff. The 80 proof vodka, triple distilled from corn, is infused with PeptoPro® casein.

“My own personal mantra has always been, if you are going to be bad you might as well be good,” Adelman said. “With Devotion Vodka I can stay devoted to my regimen while stepping out for a good time. I used to actually take my own protein out with me when I went for a night on the town. Then I realized there were millions of people like me who wanted to take care of their bodies and also have a good time. From that passion, Devotion Vodka was born.”

The new spirit is being marketed for $29.99 for the 750ml bottle in California, New York, New Jersey and Connecticut at the moment. Market response will dictate its future distribution.

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First Ontario micro-distillery goes to market

Ontario Province's first micro-distillery has released its first spirit to the domestic market.

Still Waters Distillery, located in Concord, Ontario, has created a single malt vodka from two-rowed Canadian barley usin artisan distilling techniques. It is made by hand in small batches using a pot still.


Unlike most vodkas, which are produced by industrial processes from a mix of grains, Still Waters Distillery uses only single malt barley, similar to Scotch whisky. Its vodka is distilled from the grain then triple distilled.

Still Waters Vodka retails at $36.95 ($35 US) for a 750ml bottle. It is being supplied to Canadian outlets now, with a U.S. launch in the near future.

“After years of planning, we are excited to be Ontarioʼs first true micro-distillery, joining the growing artisan distilling industry in North America," said Barry Bernstein, co-founder with Barry Stein of Still Waters Distillery. “We personally produce our vodka starting with handling of the grain, through distillation and final packaging.”

Still Waters Distillery started production in March of this year. It also is making single malt and rye whiskey to be available in several years once it has matured in locally-constructed oak casks.

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Heaven Hill tops U.S. Whisky Icons

LOUISVILLE, KY -- Heaven Hill Distilleries has been voted the best distiller in the U.S. in this year's "U.S. Icons of Whisky," conducted by Whisky Magazine.

The judges said of the family owned company that it had "quietly been getting on with the job and releasing some stunning whiskies."

It distills and distributes such brands as Evan Williams and Elijah Craig bourbons.

The Icons celebrate the people and places behind the greatest whiskies in the world, with the judging process taking place in regional heats including the U.S., Scotland and "Rest of the World." Whisky Magazine, published in the UK, is the world's leading magazine devoted to such spirits.


The awards ceremony took place at Bourbon's Bistro here. The U.S. winners now go head-to-head with the Scottish and "Rest of the World" winners, and the final World Icons will be announced at a ceremony held on the eve of "Whisky Live: London" on February 25, 2010.

Winners were:

DISTILLER OF THE YEAR: Heaven Hill Distilleries

VISITOR ATTRACTION OF THE YEAR: Buffalo Trace Distillery

AMBASSADOR OF THE YEAR: Frank Coleman, Distilled Spirits Council of the U.S. (DISCUS)

INNOVATOR OF THE YEAR: Woodford Reserve

RETAILER OF THE YEAR (SINGLE): Park Avenue Liquors, New York

RETAILER OF THE YEAR (MULTIPLE): Binny's Beverage Depot, Chicago

Heaven Hill, located in Bardstown, KY, won "Distiller of the Year" honors last year from Whisky Magazine, as well as "Visitor's Attraction of the Year."

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Vodka firmament becomes star-studded

When it comes to vodka, celebrity connections pop up in any number of ways.

The celebrity mags and cable TV gossip shows keep reporting on the likes of celebrities such as Donald Trump and Dan Aykroyd appearing around the country, pushing the particular vodkas in which they have a heavy financial stake. For Trump, it's his own Trump brand -- no surprise. For Aykroyd it’s Crystal Skull, sold in a bottle shaped like a transparent skull.

Professional athletes are part of the parade, too. Football Hall of Famer John Elway has a stake in, and touts for, something called Nude Vodka. Veteran golfer Fuzzy Zoeller has Fuzzy’s Ultra Premium Vodka, which he introduced over the summer.

Then there is model/actress Elizabeth Hurley, who has been getting a lot of press from a recent UK interview in which she breathlessly revealed that now that she’s age 40 she has switched from coffee and wine to vodka as her beverage of choice to help maintain her famous figure.

Even a film classic is getting into the act. Paramount Pictures and Iconic Brands are planning a spring 2010 launch of The Godfather Italian Organic Vodka, named for the series of films.

"The celebrity niche in the drink sector these days is somewhat in vogue and lots of people are trying to do it," said Richard DeCicco, CEO of Iconic Brands. "I think Paramount is realizing what a powerful brand 'The Godfather' is. The fact that (it) has been the No. 1 grossing movie of all time, there seemed to be a nice opportunity."

But these all are just efforts in search of a market. They’re certainly not up to the track record of a certain rapper/actor/producer/clothing designer/entrepreneur of who you may have heard.

He may not hit all demographic groups, but Sean Combs (above) -- a/k/a/ Puff Daddy, then P-Diddy, now just Diddy, unless I've missed a metamorphosis or two -- connects with enough of them to help hike Ciroc vodka sales.

The many-markets mogul began promoting the French vodka just two years ago this month, and sales already have increased by 400,000 cases in that period.

Combs, widely believed to have received a share of the company in addition to major money for his efforts, will have more products to push before long.

Mark Strachan, Ciroc marketing director, has revealed that two new flavors of the grape-based vodka will be introduced to the U.S. market in early 2010: coconut and red berry.

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Texas company enters the tequila field

There's a new player on the tequila market: Dulce Vida, which has just released a complete line on a limited basis in the Austin and San Antonio markets.

"This has been a labor of agave love for the past two years," said Charlie Paulette, CEO of Dulce Vida Spirits Inc. "The spirit industry here in Texas continues to grow and gain steam."

The Austin-based company sources its organic agave from the Mexican Pacific Coast Highland region of Tepic, Nayarit. The soil and geography are very different from the better-known lowland tequila areas, and this particular region -- surrounded by both ocean and mountains -- yields larger agave plants.

Unlike most tequilas that are 40% alcohol by volume (80 proof), Dulce Vida is 50% abv, triple distilled and made with 100% single estate, organic blue agave. Its Reposado and Añejo are aged in single-barrel oak Kentucky Whiskey barrels, the Reposado for 12 months and the Añejo for 24.

The entire line is distilled and aged under the supervision of founder and master distiller Carlos Jurado at the Ansan Distillery in Santa Cruz del Astillero, Jalisco.

Suggested retail price for a 750ml bottle is $45 for the Blanco, $50 for the Añejo and $55 for Reposado.

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A celebri-quote: Elizabeth Hurley

• Actress-model Elizabeth Hurley, 44, told a reporter from London's Daily Mail that she has switched from wine and coffee to vodka to maintain her famous figure.

"I used to drink an awful lot of coffee, but I was told after the age of 40 you have to be careful with coffee and wine. I don’t miss having a glass of wine because I’ve switched to vodka.

"I don’t really like vodka that much but if I’m at a party, I have a small one with a lot of fizzy water and a huge squeeze of lime. Initially it’s like medicine but I’ve gotten used to it now."

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Maine seeks fix for tasting law glitch

Picture this.

You're in Maine with a group of friends or family and want to sample a couple of beers or spirits before making your purchase.

No problem, you think. The state legislature earlier this year passed a bill authorizing stores that sell beer or liquor to hold up to a dozen public tastings a year.

Ah, but there is a problem. A last-minute amendment to that law says tastings “must be conducted in a manner that precludes the possibility of observation by children.” It has caused all sorts of complaints from stores.

As a result, Rep. Stacey Fitts, R-Pittsfield, has introduced legislation aimed at addressing the problems, a proposal that has received the unanimous support of the Legislative Council, which reviews all bills proposed for the legislative session that begins in January.

The intent of the new law was to give sellers of spirits and specialty brews the same marketing tool that has helped Maine wine shops draw additional customers. But, since it went into effect in September, vendors have gone through all sorts of machinations to keep children from seeing any tasting activities.

For example, Leslie Thistle of Bangor Wine & Cheese Co. told the Bangor Daily News she has to cover her front and back door windows with black and drape a sheet across the large storefront windows, giving her shop the feel of a speakeasy during her monthly tastings.

"The law also means that she could be found in violation if a parent with children in tow comes into her shop to purchase a bottle of wine during a tasting event," the newspaper said. "She also pointed out that there are no laws shielding children from the sight of people drinking alcohol while seated on a restaurant’s outdoor patio."

Other wine and beer shops have taken similar steps to cover their windows or discourage minors from seeing inside during an event.

“Many stores that traditionally never had a problem conducting wine tastings are being hurt by this onerous requirement,” Fitts said in a statement. “My bill would instead mandate that a sign be placed at the entrance to an establishment when an event is being held, so all patrons are aware of the taste-testing.”

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Drinking to the beat

It's not always what's inside that counts when it comes to marketing Scotch whisky.

Ballantine's, a brand that is one of the world's top seller in its category but not often mentioned in the same breath as the most highly rated Scotches, has come up with a new gimmick to help attract attention from bar and cocktail lounge visitors, particularly the younger ones.

It's a new dark blue bottle that has a design incorporating a graphic equalizer. It gives the appearance of reacting to sound passing through it just as it would if dialed up on a computer, CD player or other device.

The container was designed by the UK agency The Core and made by a UK company called Kandoo from molded plastic. The label works by using electroluminescent technology.

The bottle currently is being used in Germany, accord to Packaging News UK, "and 35 other markets around the world have ordered the bottle, including Thailand, Mexico, Spain and Russia." No word on when it will reach our shores.

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Highland Park releasing '64 whisky

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• This is part of "Gotta Have ...", a series of occasional postings on unusual products at unusual prices.

Anyone who is into rare and limited whiskies may want to gear up to lay claim to a 45-year-old single malt about to hit the market.

Highland Park, the world’s most northerly single malt distillery, plans to release 290 bottle of the vintage whisky for retail sale at $6,275 US per bottle.

The new release is the oldest of Highland Park’s Vintage releases, which date to 1964. It will be accompanied by a full strength 40 year old version, priced at $3,764 US.

Highland Park, founded in 1798, matures its peated whiskies in sherry casks to deepen their flavor. It is the only distillery on Orkney. It malts its own barley and uses locally-cut peat.

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Makgeolli now biggest seller in Korea

The November edition of my "What Will They Think of Next?" cocktail series featured makgeolli, the traditional Korean fermented rice wine.

Now comes a report from the South Korean newspaper Chosun Ilbo that "Makgeolli is rising in popularity in Korea as more people are health-conscious even when it comes to drinking."

Couple that with the relatively inexpensive prices of makgeolli products, and you have an 87% increase in sales from January to October compared to the same period last year, with younger consumers leading the way.

According to convenience store chain GS25, revenues from makgeolli sales in September overtook those for whiskey for the first time with sales of the fermented rice wine coming in third place after beer and soju," Chosun Ilbo reports.

Makgeolli, also known as takju, is made from rice which accounts for its milky appearance. It is made by fermenting a mixture of boiled rice and water, and is about 6.5 to 7% alcohol by volume (13 to 14 proof). It was originally most popular among farmers, who called it nongju, which means "farmer liquor."

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Diddy + Ciroc = Smash hit

He may not hit all demographic groups, but Sean Combs --a/k/a/ Puff Daddy, then P-Diddy, now just Diddy, unless I've missed a metamorphosis or two -- connects with enough of them to help hike Ciroc vodka sales.

The pop music/clothing design mogul began promoting the French vodka just two years ago this month, and sales have increased by 400,000 cases in that period.

Combs, widely believed to have received a share of the compnay in addition to major money for his efforts, will have more products to push before long.

Mark Strachan, Ciroc marketing director, has revealed that two new flavors of the grape-based vodka will be introduced to the U.S. market in early 2010: coconut and red berry.

Ciroc is co-owned by drinks giant Diageo, which among other brans owns Ketel One and Smirnoff vodkas.

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A celebri-quote: Kate Hudson

• Like her mom, the actress Goldie Hawn, Kate Hudson has never been on the chubby side. Quite the opposite, as discussed in an interview with the actress in the current issue of Elle magazine. She dropped to about 105 pounds for a movie role as a terminally ill woman.

"I love my glass of wine. I love tequila.

"To be in New York for two weeks and not have one beverage! I'm not sure I've ever done that.

"I'm not, like, 110 pounds, but I'm probably heading towards that."

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What will they think of next? (November edition)

• Sometimes you have to wonder if certain cocktails are intentional, or the result of too many other cocktails. This month's trio of recipes to add to your collection come under the oddball category.


DOS RITA

This unusual concoction comes from Ruby Tequila's Mexican Kitchen in Houston, TX. Rather than a standard garnish, it has a Dos Equis beer bottle stuck neck first into the glass.

1 bottle Dos Equis beer
1 frozen margarita

Upend a chilled bottle of beer in a frozen margarita in a classic wide-mouthed glass and let it gently bubble into the slushy as you imbibe the margarita through a straw. Garnish with a slice of lime.

MAKGEOLLI COCKTAILS

Makgeolli is a traditional rice-based Korean liquor, considered the nation's oldest such drink. The milky spirit brews in clay pots, is lightly carbonated and sweet, and about as alcoholic as a good beer.

For the most part, makgeolli had for generations been relegated to farming areas where the rice was plentiful, or to low-rent bars. Now, in the capital city of Seoul, it is making a pop culture comeback.

Because it blends so well with virtually any kind of fruit and spice, most bartenders have taken to chopping up such things as mango, melon or citrus fruits into chunks and popping them into a blender with the makgeolli.

THIS IS IT

The Michael Jackson film finale, "This Is It," is getting mixed reviews. It also is getting mixed drinks at the Movie Tavern chain of cinema restaurants, most of them located in Texas.

The four specialty drinks on the "This Is It" drinks menu include the "This Is It Cooler" (Absolut Vanilla Vodka, Parrot Bay Rum, pineapple juice and a splash of Grenadine); "Dangerous" (Bacardi Rum, Peach Schnapps, cranberry juice, pineapple juice and a splash of Grenadine); "Black or White" (Island Oasis Banana, rum, Dreyer's Ice Cream, Hershey`s Chocolate Syrup, whipped cream and cherry), and the "Billy Jean"
(tequila, Finest Call Triple Sec, Island Oasis Wild Berry and Sweet and Sour).


[Go here for the archive of monthly "What will they think of next?" cocktail recipes.]

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Under the influence of T.G.I. Friday's

Police in Sheboygan, WI, may want to call this one to the attention of the TV reality show "Cops."

A man sentenced to a court-ordered intervention program because of several driving-under-the-influence convictions showed up for his regular check-in and blew an .07 on the Breathalyzer, yet denied he had been drinking.

His excuse: He had eaten a Jack Daniel's-infused steak the night before.

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Knob Creek flowing again

Knob Creek Bourbon is about to resume flowing to liquor sales points after a controversial production stoppage this summer.

Bill Newlands, president of Beam Global Spirits & Wine U.S., and Fred Noe, the seventh-generation Beam family distiller, officially restarted production at the distillery in Clermont, KY, yesterday, presiding over the opening of the first mature, four-char barrel dating to 2000.

That officially ended the "drought" of fully matured Knob Creek that was announced in the summer and blamed on sales outstripping production. The company even sent out empty bottles to spirits writers as part of the announcement.

In the views of some, however, the "drought" was a public relations gimmick, something the company steadfastly denied.

"We want to thank Knob Creek fans everywhere for their patience and understanding these past months, and promise it was worth their wait," Newlands said. "Accelerating production and compromising quality, by a few weeks, even days, was never an option we considered. Knob Creek fans have been in touch, many thanking us for doing things the right way. It is very gratifying, and validating."

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Whiskies of the World Expo changes hands

The 11th annual Whiskies of the World Expo and Artisanal Spirits Fest will be held here at the Hotel Nikko on March 27, 2010.

The consumer tasting event, which was founded by whiskey authority Riannon Walsh, will be host to hundreds of whisky expressions from major brands to small independent labels. Walsh has been succeeded in managing the event by new hosts Douglas and Lana Smith of San Francisco.

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Woodford's latest Master's Collection spirit ready

Sunday, November 1, will bring you something more than a return to Standard Time.

It is when Woodford Reserve releases the latest bourbon in its Master’s Collection, the fourth in the series of limited edition bottlings.

This one is called "Seasoned Oak Finish." It is finished, says master distiller Chris Morris (below right), in barrels crafted with wood that has been seasoned longer than any previously used in the industry.

“Of all the distillers in our industry, we are the only bourbon company that crafts its own barrels, giving us unique knowledge and control of the process,” Morris said. “As the rough oak staves are exposed to seasonal weather changes and subsequently dried, this natural cycle develops a new range of flavors in the wood.”

As Morris explains for those unfamiliar with what wood-aging does, the seasoning progression changes the wood by reducing tannins and ultimately creating a new range of flavor compounds. The staves for most bourbon barrels are seasoned for three to five months. "Seasoned Oak Finish" combines fully-matured Woodford Reserve with barrels crafted from wood that has been exposed to the outdoors for three to five years, the longest seasoning known in the bourbon industry.

Previous releases in the Woodford Reserve Master’s Collection series were the Four Grain, Sonoma-Cutrer Finish and Sweet Mash products. The spirits are released periodically at the master distiller’s discretion. They are 90.4 proof, or 45.2% alcohol by volume.

Woodford Reserve Distillery is located in Versailles, KY.

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G'Vine bartender competition has a twist

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Every now and then a new twist on an old product can be welcome. It helps shake up any complacency you have about your spirits selections.

In the matter of gin, I'd long ago fallen into a Bombay Sapphire rut. A wonderful concoction, that Sapphire. So perfect for my palate that even when I felt the urge for a change of pace I had difficulty zeroing in on another label. Until G'Vine came along.

As my "Tasting Notes" comments reflect, one of the key ingredients in this handcrafted, limited edition 80-proof French gin is the rare and subtle green grape flower. It had made G'Vine a standout since its introduction to the market in 2007.

In an effort to put G'Vine on the lips of more people, in a variety of ways, the maker has launched an international search for "the most exceptional gin bartender" as part of the G’Vine Connoisseur Program.

I'm told there already are more than 190 entrants from around the world.

The competition’s 12 global finalists will be flown to Paris and Cognac for a week of challenges, seminars and the opportunity to run their own bar at the G’Vine Spring Ball. The winner will receive $3,000 in prize money and a trip for two to Amsterdam, London and Paris to explore the past, present and future of gin.

Each entrant is required to complete an online examination process that includes five "interactive modules" which together make up an extensive overview of the gin category. The exams are supervised and graded by Philip Duff, a noted international spirits expert and owner of Liquid Solutions Bar & Beverage Consulting and Door 74 in Amsterdam. The deadline to complete all exams is December 15. Contenders also must create an original G’Vine cocktail and include it on their bar‘s cocktail list until January 31, 2010.

“Unlike other cocktail competitions where the focus is only on the end-use cocktail created by the bartender, the G’Vine Connoisseur Program is seeking a bartender with an unmatched knowledge, and creativity -- basically a bartender who is obsessed with gin," said Audrey Fort, EWG marketing and business development director.

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Ohio drinkers to get earlier start

The world will change just a bit for drinkers in Ohio tomorrow.

That's when October 18 rolls around and a new state law goes into effect, allowing the sale of wines and liquors to begin two hours earlier than now.

Restaurants, bars and carryouts will be allowed to begin sales at 11 a.m., courtesy of the state's need for revenue. The change was part of the state budget bill that recently was passed by the legislature.

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Bill's eMailbox: In search of Mongolian vodka

Q: Do you know where I can purchase Chinggis Khaan vodka in the U.S.?

I live in the New York metropolitan area, actually New Jersey. My son lives in Pittsburgh and we occasionally travel. I bought a small bottle in Mongolia and wish I could buy more.

Eileen Satkin

A: You're not the first reader to ask that question. However, even through diligent research I've been unable to come up with a satisfactory answer.

Any time I've spotted Chinggis Khaan in a cocktail lounge, it has been because someone had purchased it in Mongolia or China during their travels. The best info I can provide is to suggest you go here and inquire about buying a bottle or two.

Incidentally, despite the good word-of-mouth reviews this Mongolian product has
been getting, it sells for just the equivalent of $20 US.

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Report slams NY liquor authority

The official word is out concerning the embattled State Liquor Authority, a bumbling bureaucracy that has been assailed on many fronts. Not surprisingly, it reinforces most of the long-standing criticisms of the authority.

The first part of the New York State Law Revision Commission's two-part report on findings and recommendations notes:

The SLA's current nine-month backlog of license applications reflects a failure in the licensing process, jeopardizes public health and safety, and exacerbates the economic crisis currently plaguing New York. Small business owners, and some large ones as well, are forced to suffer ever-mounting expenses for months on end without the income generated from having these licenses. The situation deprives the state of new revenues from sales and income taxes, and it depresses the growth of new jobs in local communities.

Despite that sweeping condemnation, apparently the SLA was not found guilty of The Great Train Robbery, the hanging-chad controversy in George Bush's election, or the disappearance of Amelia Earhart.

The SLA itself was not alone in being chastised by the Commission. In a slap at some in other branches of state government, the Commission said:

"Some people, including those quite familiar with the SLA's budget, have remarked about the backlog: 'What's the big deal, the state has already banked the license fees, the applicants can wait.' This shortsighted view, to be kind, is nothing less than foolish. The 'What's the big deal‚' advocates both in and out of government basically view the SLA as a 'cash cow‚' and care little about the importance of an expeditious, careful and fair licensing process dedicated to the well-being of New York's citizenry and the State itself. ... A New York County [Manhattan] grand jury is in the midst of concluding a criminal investigation into the bribery of SLA licensing examiners by corrupt 'expediters' that is expected to be completed by the end of October. The State Inspector General is also expected to issue a report in the near future detailing the corruption and other problems in the agency."

Among recommendations made by the Commission:

• The SLA should have the authority to declare a moratorium when it deems that the backlog of licenses has ended.
• Give the SLA the needed number of employees to allow it to carry out its mission.
• The SLA should create two positions of regional manager (one for New York City, and one for Albany, Syracuse and Rochester) to oversee daily administration ... including customer service.
• Develop policies that ensure that enforcement focuses on serious violations with an impact on public safety, and more closely monitor businesses with a history of complaints and violations.
• Investigate non-economic incentives such as those adopted by other State agencies to motivate and reward staff and alter the negative agency culture that has evolved over time."
• Owners of restaurants that have a wine, beer or full liquor license pending should be eligible to secure a BYOB (bring your own bottle) permit.

You can go here to read or download Part 1 of the report. The Commission said it "will evaluate the current structure of the SLA in Part 2 of its report."

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What will they think of next? (October edition)

• Innovation is the key word in trendy cocktail bars these days. Here are a few examples of some unusual drinks I've come across in my research to add to my monthly archival suggestions.

CALIMOCHO

This oddball quaff comes from bartender Lane Ford at Starbelly, a new San Francisco bar. He says it's based on a drink popular with young people in Spain.

6 ounces Coca-Cola
¾ ounce Carpano Antica vermouth
4 ounces of a fruit-forward, full-bodied red wine

Take a classic Coca-Cola bottle. Pour out the Coke until you have 6 ounces left. Add the Carpano Antica and wine. Place bottle in shaker filled with crushed ice. The colder it can get, the better it will taste. Bendy straw suggested.

THE BOTTOM LINE

This drink was whipped up by bartender Kevin Dietrich to win the Bärenjäger Bartending Competition in New York. He had to use the sponsor's Bärenjäger Honey Liqueur.

¾ parts Bärenjäger Honey Liqueur
1½ parts Highland Park 18
1 part Manzanilla Sherry
¼ parts Cio Ciaro
1 dash Angostura Bitters
1 dash Orange Bitters

Add all ingredients to mixing glass, ice and stir strain into chilled cocktail glass.

GARDEN SOUR HOUR

Christian Sanders, bartender at The Living Room Bar in the W Hotel in Miami's South Beach neighborhood, came up with this drink to win Bombay Sapphire's recent "Inspired Bartender Search" at the Palms in Las Vegas.

1 1/2 parts Bombay Sapphire Gin
1/3 part Galliano liqueur
1/2 part lemon juice
1/2 part Triple Sec
1 part celery juice
1 thumbnail dill paste
2 dashes of orange bitters

Salt half the rim of the cocktail glass with cracked black pepper and Himalayan sea salt. Discard all ingredients into a Boston Shaker. Add ice to the top and shake vigorously for 5-10 seconds. Double fine-strain and garnish with a spring of dill.

[Go here for the archive of monthly "What will they think of next?" cocktail recipes.]

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$16K for latest Macallan-Lalique offering

William M. Dowd photo illustration

• This is part of "Gotta Have ...", a series of occasional postings on unusual spirits products.

If you have a spare $16,000 laying around, you can be the proud owner of the third offering in the Six Pillars Collection, a whiskey-and-crystal project of The Macallan and Lalique.

The first two decanters in the series were designed to reflect the Macallans Exceptional Oak Casks and Natural Colour. This one is an exceptionally rare 57-year-old single malt whisky in a Lalique Finest Cut decanter.

The decanter has been designed by the French crystal house for the Scottish distiller, with a limited edition of 400 numbered bottles on the market. This release was vatted together from two casks: a 1950 American oak sherry butt and a vatting from Spanish oak sherry butts originally filled in 1949, 1951 and 1952.

This is the second oldest Macallan whisky ever released, only surpassed in age by the 1926, a 60-year-old Scotch bottled in 1986 and sold at auction for $75,000 in 2005.

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Bill's eMailbox: Appraising Jack Daniel's collection

Q: I hope you can assist me. My father had a huge Jack Daniel's collection. It was his passion to collect Jack Daniel's (memorabilia). Sadly, he passed away two years ago. My mom has the collection at the moment.

Do you possibly have a contact of a Jack Daniel's assessor? We would love to find out what it is worth and maybe she would sell the collection.

Kind regards,

Lizelle Binneman
New Zealand

A: Well, Lizelle, you'll probably get as many different evaluations as there are appraisers when it comes to mixed memorabilia collections. The market for them varies widely, from people who collect only coasters or only bar signs or only figurines to people who collect anything with a specific name on it.

I would suggest contacting the public relations department at the Jack Daniel's Distillery in Lynchburg, TN, and ask them for the names of known, reputable collectors/appraisers. That way you'd have a much better chance of cutting through any confusion.

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On the rocks -- for real

Andrew Hellman likes his drinks on the rocks. So, he invented "rocks" that will chill the drink.

Hellman, co-founder of the tableware company Teroforma, came up with processed soapstone rocks that you store in the freezer for several hours before using. The rocks will not dilute the drink and also will not scratch glass.

The rocks, milled to the size of sugar cubes at the Vermont Soapstone company's facility in Perkinsville, VT, are sold in sets of nine in a muslin storage bag for $20. Teroforma suggests them only for small drinks or shots.

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Texas distiller makes 1st blue corn whiskey

If your ideas of drinking in Texas are based on old movies about the Wild West, you'd be forgiven for thinking there was a distillery every few miles. But, that's far from the truth.

There aren't a lot of distilleries in the Lone Star State. And one of the more interesting ones is just 19 months old.

Balcones Distilling, founded last year in Waco, has just released what it says is probably the world's first blue corn whiskey, called Baby Blue.

Chip Tate, founder of Balcones (pronounced bal-KO-nays), said the whiskey is made 100% from Hopi blue corn, distilled twice, and aged in new charred oak barrels.

Tate, a longtime brewer, said Baby Blue could legally be called bourbon, but the type of corn he used gives it a different character. As the Balcones website explains it:

"While Hopi blue corn we use has an extremely interesting history, there is really only reason one we prefer it to all other corn for our whiskey -- taste. Its gorgeous midnight blue kernels are packed with a rich, roasty nuttiness that is truly exceptional.

"Unlike most of the blue corn on the market, Hopi blue corn is not just white dent corn which has been specially crossed to give it a blue tint. There is a lot of quality corn in this category, even some nice organic examples. But in a blind taste test, we could not tell the blue from the white corn. Hopi blue corn, however, has been grown with the same rich color and flavor for thousands of years and is the only corn that could impart the rich character we require for our whisky.??Americans have innovated the use of corn in whisky since we first set foot on this continent."

Balcones also has Rumble, a rum-like spirit made from Texas wildflower honey, mission figs and turbinado sugar, in distribution.

Availability at this time is very limited. If you live outside Texas, your best bet is to contact Stephen Germer, co-founder and marketing director, directly at (512) 294-6735 for information.

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Jack Daniel's: Mmm, that's meat

Many people enjoy having a shot of Jack Daniel's with their meals. Now they can have a bite of Jack Daniel's to go with their whiskey.

Jack Daniel’s Properties Inc., the brand licensing unit of Jack Daniel’s Tennessee Whiskey, is launching a line of Jack Daniel’s ready-to-eat meat entrees.

The refrigerated products include baby back ribs, roasted beef brisket, pork loin, barbecue pulled pork and barbecue pulled chicken. They will be made using Jack Daniel’s Old No. 7 Tennessee Whiskey.

The foods are being produced by Completely Fresh Foods Inc. of Monticello, CA.

“With the launch of this premium line of Jack Daniel’s ready-to-eat meat entrees, we are furthering the long-established connection between Jack Daniel’s Tennessee Whiskey and high-quality American cuisine,” David Dorsey, vice president and director for licensing at JD's parent Brown-Forman Corp., said in a news release.

The entrees were test marketed in September 2008 in Southern California and have been expanded into such stores as Costco, Albertsons, Kroger and Supervalu around the country.

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Mexican authorities trash fake tequilas

• From the Guadalajara (Mexico) Reporter

GUADALAJARA, Mexico -- Authorities destroyed almost 25,000 containers (86,000 liters) of fake tequila last week after an operation in which Consumer Protection Agency officials traveled the Ruta del Tequila, snatching up adulterated firewater in the towns of Tequila, Amatitan, Magdelena, Teuchitlan and Arenal.

Included in the haul were liquors, cream liquors, mezcals and other beverages labled “tequila” without the proper authorization. More odious were watered down or under volume products.

Tequila distillery owners helped authorities light the blaze that destroyed the productos piratas.

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Bombay Sapphire: We are the champions

I have long felt a special relationship with Bombay Sapphire gin.

Sure, I enjoy others -- G'vine, Hendrick's, Boodles and so on, but Sapphire was my first love.

Well, it turns out the iconic infused spirit has been seeing other guys -- and gals. According to the International Wine and Spirit Record (IWSR), Bombay Sapphire has become the world’s top premium gin with a global market share of 31.7% for the 12-month period ending Dec. 31, 2008, now that all sales figures have been analyzed.

The best-performing markets for the Bacardi Ltd. product have been in the top international gin markets -- the U.S., United Kingdom, Spain and travel retail, outperforming the category in both value and volume. In 2008, Sapphire racked up a compound annual growth rate of 11.7%, according to IWSR.

Hussy.

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'Spirits of Mexico' fit to be tied

The final results are in from the "Spirits of Mexico" tasting competition just completed in San Diego. Interestingly, two categories had ties for the top award.

In the Silver/Plata category, Corazon Blanco and Nocaut Blanco tied for "best of" honors. And, in Añejo, Milagro and Oro Azul tied for the top award.

Other category toppers:

TEQUILA REPOSADO: Pueblo Viejo

TEQUILA EXTRA AÑEJO: Clase Azul Ultra

SOTOL: Hacienda de Chihuahua Silver

MEZCAL: Forever Oax Reposado

TEQUILA FLAVORS/CREAMS: Casa 1921 Cream

The competition, sponsored by The Polished Palate and owner Dori Bryant, judged 111 entries from 48 brands. It produced 44 gold medals, 40 silver and 25 bronze.

The competition was co-hosted by Robert Plotkin of Bar Media and Jack Robertiello of Drinks Ink. Entries were judged on five elements -- appearance, aromatics, flavor, mouthfeel and finish, with a rating system totaling a maximum possible score of 100 points. Riedel Tequila Crystal was the stemware of choice.

Five brands received gold medals across the board for their Blanco, Reposado and Añejo entries, including Pueblo Viejo, newcomers Nocaut and El Grado, the newly re-launched Suavemente and Hacienda de Chihuahua Sotol.

The gold medal winners in the various categories were:

TEQUILA SILVER/PLATA: Chinaco Blanco, Corazon Blanco, Corzo Silver, Don Eduardo Silver, El Grado Blanco, La Certeza Blanco, La Pinata Silver, Nocaut Blanco, Pueblo Viejo Blanco, Riazul Premium Silver, Siete Leguas Blanco, Tierras Blanco, Suavemente Blanco.

TEQUILA REPOSADO: 3 Amigos, Chinaco, Clase Azul, El Grado, Muchote, Nocaut, Penacho Azteca, Pueblo Viejo, Suavemente, T1-Tequila Uno.

TEQUILA AÑEJO: Tequila 55, Capaz, El Grado, Milagro, Nocaut, Orgullo Pueblo Viejo, Oro Azul, Pueblo Viejo, Suavemente.

TEQUILA EXTRA AÑEJO: Campo Azul, Clase Azul Ultra, Corrido, T1-Tequila Uno, 11 Años.

SOTOL: Hacienda de Chihuahua Silver, Hacienda de Chihuahua Reposado, Hacienda de Chihuahua Añejo.

MEZCAL: Forever Oax Reposado, Forever Oax Silver.

TEQUILA FLAVORS/CREAMS: Casa 1921 Tequila Cream, Gran Centenario Rosangel.

Go here for the complete list of all other medals.

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Maine's wine, spirit makers on the prowl

• From McClatchy-Tribune Information Services

CAMDEN, ME -- Maine wine and spirit makers face an uphill battle to win market share, but they are welcoming the challenge.

C.C. Peet of Cellardoor Winery in Lincolnville, Steve Linne of Blacksmiths Winery in South Casco, Bob Bartlett of Bartlett's Winery in Gouldsboro and Bob Harkins of Cold River Vodka in Freeport detailed the challenges of the wine and spirit business during a panel discussion ... at the 4th annual Maine Fare celebration.

Maine Fare's goal is to assist in preserving, protecting and sharing Maine's culinary history and resources. The event highlighted Maine products through panel discussions, tastings, exhibits and samplings. The wine and spirit panel was moderated by Jack Scully of Belfast's Easterly Wine.

All agreed that the key thing they have working for them is the Maine brand. Whether marketing wine or spirits, having a product that is made in Maine makes it easier to attract buyers.

"There is a tremendous loyalty to Maine-made and -grown foods," Scully said. "The possibility for growth in the wine and spirit field is terrific. I think the growth of Maine products both inside the state and outside the state has great potential."

All three vintners said that because wine has a certain "snob factor," it's difficult to convince buyers that wines made of blueberries and other fruits can match up with grape wines from France or California. Bartlett, who has been in the business more than 30 years, said some wine drinkers are reluctant to sample his wines simply because they are made from fruit. He said working with restaurants individually is one way of overcoming that problem.

[Go here for the full story.]

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The Lion & The Bartender

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Indian whisky overtaking No. 1 Johnnie Walker

Johnnie Walker has long held the distinction of being the world's top-selling whisky, but that title is about to be taken over by an Indian spirit.

Bagpiper will be the No. 1 seller by the end of the year, according to projections crediting huge sales in India, the world's biggest whisky market.

Johnnie Walker was founded in Kilmarnock, Scotland, in the 19th Century.

Bagpiper was created in 1976, and sells for about US$3.25 a bottle. It is made by the United Spirits company in Bangalore, India, and is owned by Vijay Mallya, who also owns Whyte & Mackay of Glasgow, Scotland.

In an interview with the Daily Record, a Scottish newspaper, Ian Bankier, chairman of The Whisky Shop store chain, said: "Bagpiper is not Scotch. Indian whiskies are made from sugar molasses with some bulk Scotch in there to flesh them out. They're nice, they're pleasant, they're sweet. But it is a completely different drink from Scotch. Really, we're comparing a moped with a Rolls Royce."

Last year, 147 million litres of Johnnie Walker were sold around the world, compared with 139 million litres of Bagpiper. However, sales of Johnnie Walker grew by just 3%, while Bagpiper's sales are growing in excess of 10%.

The Scotch Whisky Association says Bagpiper's rise is largely due to high import tariffs, which tripled the price of Scotch whisky. Campbell Evans of the SWA said:

"This isn't about the state of the Scotch industry, it has everything to do with the Indian government's tariff barriers. India has the biggest spirits market in the world and it is primarily Indian product that's sold there. The tariffs mean it's very difficult for Scotch to get a foothold in the market and addressing that is our No.. 1 international priority.... Right now, we have less than 1% of the Indian whisky market."

Speaking of Whyte and Mackay, the company is in the process of laying off about 100 workers in Scotland, blaming a sales slump in the whisky industry and a general decline in the economy.

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